Need input on Gun Safe, specifically Stack On brand

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Re: Need input on Gun Safe, specifically Stack On brand

Post by Daniel44114 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 5:31 pm

I have seen the videos at the fun shows about guys breaking into cheap safes. I agree
with those who have commented above. You need layers of protection. That is make
your house a less than appealing target. That means dogs, Alarm Signs, Alarms. I have
worked in security and talk to a lot of LEO about break ins. A determined thief will get what
he wants but most are smash and grab jobs.

Safe placement will prevent the thief from finding it while the alarm is sounding and less likely
that if they do find it they will take the time to get into it. Mine is an inexpensive safe. It
is secured in a small area. It is secured in such a way that its not being moved unless you are
very determined, very strong and have time to play.

Just know that any safe it better than no safe. Get what you can afford then make a plan to
upgrade when you get a chance. Also the don't keep all your eggs in one basket rule applies as well.

Good Luck

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Re: Need input on Gun Safe, specifically Stack On brand

Post by airwolf » Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:32 pm

Gun safes can be very deceiving. All the ones at big box stores can easily be defeated. All these safes are actually rated as residential security containers by UL ratings. The word "safe" is more of a marketing term. The door will be the strongest and the whole body of the safe will generally be thin 12-14 gauge steel as some others have mentioned.

This is easily punched through with the pike of a fire axe. 10 gauge is considered the minimum for decent protection, with 7 gauge being ideal. I understand budget constraints, but sometimes just a little bit more money up front will keep you regretting your purchase on something that you will likely keep for a long time.

Whatever you get, BOLT IT DOWN. As I said the door of the safe is generally the thickest. Thieves will often tip over an unbolted safe down so that they can have far more momentum and strength as they come down hard with an axe blade and if they are using prying tools, tipping a safe over and prying on the door allows much more leverage and body weight to be used. Also you will be quite surprised at what two able bodied men and a furniture dolly can quickly move. My safe is around 1400 pounds and I have it very securely bolted to the floor.

Also be careful if you have maintenance people into your house and they see your safe. When they return at a later date when your not home, they will bring what they need to get into your safe. Most of these safes have spoke handles which is fine on quality safes that are properly protected. All a thief has to do is bring a long steel pipe and place it on one of those spokes and now they have enough leverage to pull on that spoke and actually break cheap the internal lock of the safe in seconds.

Be aware these cheap safes at big box stores are often made in china, the steel and locks, are more for "looks". Better guns safes will have a slip mechanism that once a lot of pressure is applied to the handle the spoke will just keep spinning, diverting all potential force away from the internal lock. Also don't be fooled by the number of locking bolts on a cheap safe, for it can have a hundred locking bolts, none of it matters if the linkage to those bolts are weak.

The are just a few examples. I did over a year of research before I bought my safe and learned most of this by using google and I know someone who moves safes for a living. Remember the thieves watch google also. I understand that the cheap safes can offer a little protection from family members and smash and grab circumstances, but if someone knows you have the safe, bringing a couple quick tools can get thieves into many cheap safes in the time frame of what many consider smash and grab. Most cheap safes can be pried open in under two minutes if tipped over.

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