gravitas73 wrote:That does help thanks! I'll try to wrap the head of a wrench with some cloth and use it as a lever between the prongs, then clean it with degreaser.
I'm just a little worried about getting my suppressor off if I ever need to. I was recommended to use Rocksett to secure the threaded suppressor. If I do I won't have any "prongs" to use to remove the suppressor someday.
I guess I'll just use a very small amount of Rocksett to hopefully make it easier to break loose?
I wouldn't rockset the suppressor onto the barrel, now way. The suppressor should stay put when threaded on tightly. If you are worried about it loosening or you are performing rigorous activities simply check and re-tighten by hand every so often using a towel of course, as a hot suppressor will burn your hand. I think you will find that you are not likely to run into issues that require you to rockset your suppressor on your barrel. Additionally if you are working up loads it is a good idea to make sure the loads are punching nice round holes in the paper targets as oblong or square corner looking holes seem to indicate instability and you don't want an unstable bullet flying through your suppressor because you cannot simply remove it before testing the load.
If you do run into some issues I'm sure there are some other approaches you can take to fix the problem, and at the very least you could get the weakest color of locktite made and use that instead of rockset.
If u have a local gunsmith that sells the AAC cans most likely they have the special tool to fit the prongs. Took 30sec with it and a breaker bar. I am running a 7.62sdn-6 n wanted the combo flash and break so swapped it n was good to go
Lions must not concern themselfs with the thoughts of lambs
I'll buy it and if anyone needs it just PM me. Please don't rip me off either as I'm doing this for our community. I guess I can take a refundable deposit...
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Excelis Night Enforcer Authorized Reseller/Morovision Night Vision Authorized Dealer
I carefully stuck the handle of a long flat wrench (wrapped in a pillow case) through my AAC flash hider prongs and carefully torqued/turned the wrench handle to unscrew/break the flash hider free from the rockset.
This was after trying multiple wrenches on the flats of the flash hider that basically started stripping the flats and slipping and causing some small marks on my barrel. I had nothing to lose at this point so gave my approach a shot and I wish I would have started with this approach as it did not hurt the flash hider and worked perfectly.
Yeah my approach did not include the AAC tool but I honestly can't handle dealing the horrible gunsmiths in my area and additionally having to wait like 2 weeks for the horrible gunsmiths to perform such a simple 30 second task and have them probably charge $65 to do it.
I would use my approach again in a heartbeat, they key is to simply be gentle to not hurt the flash hider. Do as you please however this is a potential trick to keep in your back pocket if you have a similar situation like mine
AAC tool showed up today and I put it on my 3/8" breaker bar, gave it a smidge of a tighten to crack it and went the other way, came off instantly just about. I had the upper chucked in a vise block. Threaded on my suppressor and moved the AAC flash hider/comp to my Noveske 6.8 16". I plan to swap the uppers and the suppressor as needed to the Gen 2 lower. Carry it all in one bag maybe.
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Excelis Night Enforcer Authorized Reseller/Morovision Night Vision Authorized Dealer
Seventyfivefj40 wrote:I had the upper chucked in a vise block.
Thread resurrection...
I'm curious to know what vice/block combinations people are using to hold their barrels/uppers whilst applying gratuitous amounts of torque to remove flash hiders, muzzle brakes, etc.. I've got a overly-tight flash suppressor I need to remove.
Seventyfivefj40 wrote:I had the upper chucked in a vise block.
Thread resurrection...
I'm curious to know what vice/block combinations people are using to hold their barrels/uppers whilst applying gratuitous amounts of torque to remove flash hiders, muzzle brakes, etc.. I've got a overly-tight flash suppressor I need to remove.
I use the DPMS vise block that goes up in the receiver. Works like a champ so far but im not hanging from it and i use a cheap vise at my buddies house
I bought a se of v block vise jaws ($30), made of aluminum, with attached magnets to hold to the steel vise jaws. I then took an old leather belt, cut it to the vise jaw size and JB welded the leather to the v blocks to cushion whatever I'm working on.
I recently removed the 51T from my Noveske upper. AAC sells a Flash Hider Tool for the 51T. Mount your barrel wrapped in leather in a barrel vise, use the Flash Hider Tool, and a small 3/8" breaker bar and removal is a piece of cake.