Duracoat guidance?

[Sithlord]

I have a non-anodized 80% lower that I am going to be milling after xmas. I plan on duracoating it myself - just the lower, although we may do the slide on a pistol as well.

I purchased the rattle-can version of the duracoat color - it contains the hardener and color in one, along with the aerosol, so you don't need a separate applicator, or have to mix anything. It also came with their TruStrip degreaser.

My thoughts were to NOT paint the components (eg, selector, takedown pins, bolt/mag release) so that they would be black against the selected color (rustic bronze) for nice contrast. I think only the trigger guard will get coated. Also, this will be a single color, so it should be a bit easier especially for the first time. I've done rattle can before, but that was on an upper receiver and handguard.

What advice might you give in this application? Other posts have suggested that Duracoat is thicker, so I'm wondering how much I should tape off especially on areas such as the bolt catch and pivot/takedown pin holes. Of course, the roll pin holes are also a concern. Do you have any advice for painting the interior of the mag-well? The FCG pocket shouldn't be too big of a deal even if oversprayed, I would imagine.

If I decide to do the slide on the pistol, besides the obvious of removing the sights and taping major areas on the bottom of the slide, is there anything else recommend besides a thorough degreasing / acetone cleaning and then some scuffing?

What gotchas, lessons learned, guidance can the good folks here provide?

[rebel]

I have a non-anodized 80% lower that I am going to be milling after xmas. I plan on duracoating it myself - just the lower, although we may do the slide on a pistol as well.

I purchased the rattle-can version of the duracoat color - it contains the hardener and color in one, along with the aerosol, so you don't need a separate applicator, or have to mix anything. It also came with their TruStrip degreaser.

My thoughts were to NOT paint the components (eg, selector, takedown pins, bolt/mag release) so that they would be black against the selected color (rustic bronze) for nice contrast. I think only the trigger guard will get coated. Also, this will be a single color, so it should be a bit easier especially for the first time. I've done rattle can before, but that was on an upper receiver and handguard.

What advice might you give in this application? Other posts have suggested that Duracoat is thicker, so I'm wondering how much I should tape off especially on areas such as the bolt catch and pivot/takedown pin holes. Of course, the roll pin holes are also a concern. Do you have any advice for painting the interior of the mag-well? The FCG pocket shouldn't be too big of a deal even if oversprayed, I would imagine.

If I decide to do the slide on the pistol, besides the obvious of removing the sights and taping major areas on the bottom of the slide, is there anything else recommend besides a thorough degreasing / acetone cleaning and then some scuffing?

What gotchas, lessons learned, guidance can the good folks here provide?

Definitely plug any pin holes or where surface to surface engagement is critical. Start with a light coats and build up. You can't be to anal about de-greasing.

[golfindia]

Sandblast the receiver if you can. Instructions say "scuff", but Duracoat always seems to end up glossy....

Aluminum oxide media would be even better. Shove toothpicks in detent pin holes.

[rlandry6]

I blasted several Glock slides with 180 grit aluminum oxide and got very good results. The Duracoat kits that have you manually mix the two components do give you some control over the gloss by varying the amount of hardener. Whatever comes out of the aerosol cal is going to be what it is.