hi, I am new to 300BLK and to reloading in general.
I just wanted to ask....this data is just for 5.56 cases chopped off for 300BLK, right? If I have some factory ammo (Sellior and Bellot) that I bought as 300BLK initially, it should generally be ok to use? Even though S&B is on the "bad" list?
STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
You are correct. This list applies to converting 223/556 bras to 300blk.
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
Good afternoon, been lurking here for a bit getting ready to form some brass.
Does anyone have experience with .223 in UMC?
I have a fair amount with that headstamp but can't find any results in my googlefoo for neck thickness after forming.
Does anyone have experience with .223 in UMC?
I have a fair amount with that headstamp but can't find any results in my googlefoo for neck thickness after forming.
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
Thank you for this useful topic! Unfortunately, I did not find this information on time, and I processed more than one hundred GECO cartridges. They turned out to be unsuitable for working with a .308 diameter bullet. Stupid job
Most of the listed "good" brass can not be found in Ukraine, but here there are some 5.56 mm cartridges produced by GGG from Lithuania http://www.ggg-ammo.lt/en/ggg-223-rem-design-gpr11
This cartridge is made according to NATO standards and the brass is similar to the M193 brass. The neck is 0.012 "-0.013" thick. So, these brass is convertible at 300 blk. Perhaps this information will be useful for participants from Europe.
And I will look for the Hornady brass - that is best converted into 300 blk…
Sorry for my imperfect English ((((
Most of the listed "good" brass can not be found in Ukraine, but here there are some 5.56 mm cartridges produced by GGG from Lithuania http://www.ggg-ammo.lt/en/ggg-223-rem-design-gpr11
This cartridge is made according to NATO standards and the brass is similar to the M193 brass. The neck is 0.012 "-0.013" thick. So, these brass is convertible at 300 blk. Perhaps this information will be useful for participants from Europe.
And I will look for the Hornady brass - that is best converted into 300 blk…
Sorry for my imperfect English ((((
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
Welcome Aboard!dieselrealtor wrote:Good afternoon, been lurking here for a bit getting ready to form some brass.
Does anyone have experience with .223 in UMC?
I have a fair amount with that headstamp but can't find any results in my googlefoo for neck thickness after forming.
UMC used to be the same as Remington. You could cut one and then measure it with calipers and post the results for others!
Good Luck!
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
I think it would be prudent to measure neck thickness on any commercially loaded 300 brass before reloading. There is no guarantee that it was made to SAAMI specs and you never know what steps were taken during the manufacturing process. It might save you a little time at the end of the day.
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
Can you be a little clearer in what you are saying? Will the brass in the neck area grow after firing.....or what manufacturing steps are you looking for?rlandry6 wrote:I think it would be prudent to measure neck thickness on any commercially loaded 300 brass before reloading. There is no guarantee that it was made to SAAMI specs and you never know what steps were taken during the manufacturing process. It might save you a little time at the end of the day.
Do you measure factory loaded Barnes brass for before reloading and if so what are you measuring?
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
If you are talking 300 Blackout headstamped brass, the guarantee is 100's of millions in dollars of liability.rlandry6 wrote:I think it would be prudent to measure neck thickness on any commercially loaded 300 brass before reloading. There is no guarantee that it was made to SAAMI specs and you never know what steps were taken during the manufacturing process. It might save you a little time at the end of the day.
If you're talking converted brass, sold as remanufactured, it's not a bad idea if you don't know the headstamp.
300 Blackout, not just for sub-sonics.
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
In your case, a good neck turning tool would help you out.Jurgen-m wrote:Thank you for this useful topic! Unfortunately, I did not find this information on time, and I processed more than one hundred GECO cartridges. They turned out to be unsuitable for working with a .308 diameter bullet. Stupid job
Most of the listed "good" brass can not be found in Ukraine, but here there are some 5.56 mm cartridges produced by GGG from Lithuania http://www.ggg-ammo.lt/en/ggg-223-rem-design-gpr11
This cartridge is made according to NATO standards and the brass is similar to the M193 brass. The neck is 0.012 "-0.013" thick. So, these brass is convertible at 300 blk. Perhaps this information will be useful for participants from Europe.
And I will look for the Hornady brass - that is best converted into 300 blk…
Sorry for my imperfect English ((((
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
Just wanted to add a head stamp I've been finding a lot lately. It is just a capital "T" @ 12:00 with "5.56x45" @ 6:00 & has 3 crimp primer pockets.
I took 5 random pieces, chopped it, chamfered & debured, then measured. 4 of the 5 was at 0.0145", the 5th was at 0.015" so I guess put it to the bad list.
I took 5 random pieces, chopped it, chamfered & debured, then measured. 4 of the 5 was at 0.0145", the 5th was at 0.015" so I guess put it to the bad list.
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