I tested another 5 each of these
CJ 8 - .014"
RAM 223 - .014"
AB 556 - .015" to .016"
STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
I've been shooting the pmc brass in a 300 pistol and it damages the rims with the extraction. Only getting one loading with part of the brass. I'm assuming it is the small letters as I need a magnifying glass to read.
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
I tested a batch of 3
TW 67 - .012"
I tested a batch of 4
NOSLER - .012"
I would have tested more, but those were the only one I have right now.
TW 67 - .012"
I tested a batch of 4
NOSLER - .012"
I would have tested more, but those were the only one I have right now.
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
Hi,
I used:
Fiocchi 5.56 brass from Spanish army, perfect fit for blk, only cut and trim 1.368". I fired about 500 and no problems.
IMI 5.56 brass from Spanish army, they have the primer´s pocket crimp, is the only issue.
I used:
Fiocchi 5.56 brass from Spanish army, perfect fit for blk, only cut and trim 1.368". I fired about 500 and no problems.
IMI 5.56 brass from Spanish army, they have the primer´s pocket crimp, is the only issue.
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
List updated with new data. Thanks to the people contributing.
ballistictools.com/store
Blackout brass, gauges, and more
Blackout brass, gauges, and more
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
How do you come up with .014? It should be .013BallisticTools wrote:Originally compiled by tlee_20, updated with user reports. In general, the wall thickness around 1.360 inches from the base will determine success or failure. As a rule of thumb, if the wall thickness is greater than 0.014, there may be problems with the loaded diameter of the neck being too large to chamber easily.
Spec for the neck width is .334.
.334 - .308 = 26/2. That's gives us .013 for max wall thickness.
http://saami.org/specifications_and_inf ... df#page=13
Code: Select all
Maximum cartridge = .3340
Minimum Chamber = .3350
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
FWIW I tried some TAA today and could hardly get it through the resizer and it wouldn't drop into a Lyman 300blk case gauge.
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
See Note 4 on page 1 about TAA.Spike wrote:FWIW I tried some TAA today and could hardly get it through the resizer and it wouldn't drop into a Lyman 300blk case gauge.
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
I am new to loading 300blk out and I am having a lot of trouble. I'm using once fired .223 and 5.56 cases. I've had more failure to chamber problems than I would have ever imagined. I've read through the forum and sorted the brass as suggested. I'm measuring every piece of brass for case length, COL and wall thickness. It's at best, hit and miss getting rounds to chamber. Factory ammo has no problem. I'm beginning to think my sizing die is no good. I'm at the point that I am making dummy rounds and checking to see if they will chamber. Essentially I'm doing the work twice.
I have the Hornady 300 BO die set and the Hornady Lock n load classic single stage press. I'm using 147 grn bullets I purchased from Reloading Valley. Not sure of the brand of bullets but like I said before, some rounds will chamber a lot won't. That being said, I don't think the bullets are the problem. I'm sizing the brass and trimming to 1.360 -1.363 inches in length. Wall thickness is .010" - .013".
I'm at my wits end, does anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
I have the Hornady 300 BO die set and the Hornady Lock n load classic single stage press. I'm using 147 grn bullets I purchased from Reloading Valley. Not sure of the brand of bullets but like I said before, some rounds will chamber a lot won't. That being said, I don't think the bullets are the problem. I'm sizing the brass and trimming to 1.360 -1.363 inches in length. Wall thickness is .010" - .013".
I'm at my wits end, does anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk
Measure the neck of a loaded round and make sure that it is .3340 max. If over then the bullet may be oversized or the case mouth is flared slightly. Get a Lee Factory Crimp die to take the flare out. Invest in a slotted Sheridan gauge. It will allow you to see what the round looks like in a chamber and show you where the round problem is located (neck, shoulder, base, etc).Drcarren wrote:I am new to loading 300blk out and I am having a lot of trouble. I'm using once fired .223 and 5.56 cases. I've had more failure to chamber problems than I would have ever imagined. I've read through the forum and sorted the brass as suggested. I'm measuring every piece of brass for case length, COL and wall thickness. It's at best, hit and miss getting rounds to chamber. Factory ammo has no problem. I'm beginning to think my sizing die is no good. I'm at the point that I am making dummy rounds and checking to see if they will chamber. Essentially I'm doing the work twice.
I have the Hornady 300 BO die set and the Hornady Lock n load classic single stage press. I'm using 147 grn bullets I purchased from Reloading Valley. Not sure of the brand of bullets but like I said before, some rounds will chamber a lot won't. That being said, I don't think the bullets are the problem. I'm sizing the brass and trimming to 1.360 -1.363 inches in length. Wall thickness is .010" - .013".
I'm at my wits end, does anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
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