Notar wrote:I've loaded to Major with the 175's, and 155 Palma's using Lancer Mags modded by Wilson. I haven't looked at bullet drop of the 155 vs the 135 yet, but I'm sure it's flatter, and I'll compare the 175 vs the 135, the 135 still has arch, but not like the 175. Most of the 300BLK ammo I shoot is the 175 in supers, it's good stuff.
Aaron, I send you Cash for the next barrels, 22 in for the G and 20 inch light weight for the 6x45. Let me know when your Aimpoints come in and when to send the $$.
The last distributor told us that we were not getting our aimpoints because they are so far behind, Im now on the quest to find more. As for barrels, Ill knock em out.
Still loving your brass brother!
Regards,
Aaron Fouraker
Co-Owner
Delta Company Arms, LLC
(918) 332-6503 [email protected]
www.deltacompanyarms.com
IN GOD WE TRUST.
Notar wrote:Thanks for the correction, you got the info from the right place.
With the 135 SMK, the 20 inch barrel makes sence. Maybe a slower powder than H110? Anyone with Quickload have any ideas. I've pushed a 125 Ballistic tip to 2200FPS with a 16 inch barrel and H110, I had no more room to push it(velocity didn't build with increments of more powder).
I've never fired the 135 SMK in 30 cal. but I've shot many SMK's, and they grouped well.
He said they filled the case....approximately 21 grains of H110....I believe he said it was a compressed load.....but it was H110. Keep in mind though....the 20" barrel gave him the ability to get the velocity he needed to make major with the 135 pill.
I think at around 78,000 primers will start to pop. I don't know at what point the gun blows up. I personally would never intentionally load over 55,000 psi though I would understand if someone wanted to load to 62,000 psi.
To be fair..... as a 3Gunner (and I am one).... unless you are shooting USPSA Multigun matches....you don't need to make major....the only exception would be if you are trying to make major power factor (320pf) to shoot one of the Heavy Metal categories. Both IMGA and Horner scoring methods don't take power factor into consideration....the vast majority of 3Gun matches out there are using or moving to one of these two time plus scoring methods.....and many USPSA matches are doing the same.
The 300BLK will shine in most matches due to the lower recoil signature.... only distance targets will favor the .223. Even so, most 3Gunners will tell you that 85-95% of all rifle targets are within 200 yards for almost all of their matches....now the Rocky Mountain 3Gun and the Ironman are different...but they are the exception...not the rule. So as long as you know your hold overs for longer targets, you can tear up the 3Gun world with a 300BLK.
Any 16" gun with a 110 Vmax (or any good 110 or even a 125 for that matter) can be competitive.... look at the ballistics of the 110s....with a 100 yard zero you get:
50 -.44
100 0
150 -1.41" or -.9 MOA
200 -4.93" or -2.35 MOA
250 -10.86" or -4.15 MOA
300 -19.55" or -6.22 MOA
With a 200 yard zero:
50 +.8"
100 +2.46" or 2.35 MOA
150 +2.29" or 1.46 MOA
200 0
250 -4.7" or -1.79 MOA
300 -12.16" or -3.87 MOA
If you look at most matches, 90+% of their targets are within shooting bays that are between 50-100 yards long. Most rifle targets are at least 6" in diameter (more likely 8"+)....and long range targets are likely to be one of two types...the LaRue Sniper Target (13x28) or MGM Flasher Target (10" circle with a 5x4 mount that can still be engaged). So....get your AAC 16" upper and load up some light weight 30 cal projectiles and go to town.
Frankly, the close range swingers, droppers, clamshells and obscured (by no shoot targets) are the real problem targets within 3Gun....and the low recoil, fast followup shot capability of the 300BLK is why it would shine.... I can't remember a paper target that didn't get a double tap...... and a .30 cal projectile takes steel down with authority!
