300BlkTalk

I have yet to push anything subsonic past 100 yards, but I have found a great sweet spot with Berger 215 Hybrid Target and Accurate 1680 running about 1005 fps at 11.4 gns. Have no clue how either will do at 200, but with just an EOTech red dot and 10” Spikes Tactical barrel I’ve managed a few borderline MOA groups at 100 Yds.

I get my best sub 1/2 MOA accuracy is with 208gr A-max and ELD reloads running them in a semi custom Tikka T3 with a 1:7 twist 12” ultra match standard profile barrel. I also get sub MOA with Lehigh 194gr ME and 168gr CF for deer stalking.

I don’t really do anything special reloading wise other than weight my brass into 3 weight classes for best case volume, chrony each batch separate from the others. Need the best possible accuracy for hunting out to 300m. To get the accuracy out that far I’m using a Nightforce NXS compact 2.5-10x42, an awesome little scope for this caliber just range distance, take angle and dial up on scope.

I also have had the best results with the 208 Amax in a 16" bolt rifle and a 10.5" AR pistol. We stocked up before the change to ELD, wish I had bought more. My best day/group on steel was 3/4 MOA out to 200 with the rifle, with perfect light/no wind conditions. Honestly, I dunno if my setup could replicate that outing without serious focus and a little weather karma. Brass is sorted by weight, match prep for the primer pockets, flash hole uniformed, neck thickness brass sort, and lastly a light crimp or none depending on the weapon. A lot of fine work has been done by some serious ballistic magicians here on this site.

tikkablk wrote: ↑Fri May 17, 2019 10:21 pm I get my best sub 1/2 MOA accuracy is with 208gr A-max and ELD reloads running them in a semi custom Tikka T3 with a 1:7 twist 12” ultra match standard profile barrel. I also get sub MOA with Lehigh 194gr ME and 168gr CF for deer stalking.

I don’t really do anything special reloading wise other than weight my brass into 3 weight classes for best case volume, chrony each batch separate from the others. Need the best possible accuracy for hunting out to 300m. To get the accuracy out that far I’m using a Nightforce NXS compact 2.5-10x42, an awesome little scope for this caliber just range distance, take angle and dial up on scope.

What scope can you recommend? I have used Vortex and had a really good experience of using it. Also, I have Vortex binoculars(https://opticzoo.com/vortex-viper-28-review/) now and have no issues with them. If you can suggest some other brand I would be
very glad.

If I could get another scope I'd like to get vortex razor 3-18x50.

To any one out there that has succeeded in a sub minute 200 yard subsonic bullet, please provide some feedback.

My set up is as follows ;

Remington SPS Tactical - 16.5" / 1:7"
Stock ; Magpul Hunter 700
Scope ; Vortex 2.5-10x44 Viper
Ring(s) ; NF - RS 20 MOA

Powder ; N120
Brass ; Lapua - trimmed to 1.3560" / Flash hole drilled out to 7/64" (0.109")
Primers ; GM205M
Bullet of choice ; Lapua 200 gr (B416)

Dies ;
Redding Competition Seating die
L.E. Wilson Bushing Type Full Length Sizing die
Bushing sizes ; .327 & .328

Best Load ;
Bushing used ; 0.327 =0.003" neck tension
All brass annealed
N120 @ 11.57 gr
COAL ; 2.070" or 1.600" with the Hornady Bullet Comparator (#8-30)
All Lapua bullets weighed ; 200.6 gr

Speeds (5 shot) ;
*Barrel NOT snaked/cleaned*
1. 1078
2. 1063
3. 1072
4. 1033
5. 1076

ES 45
AVG 1064
(OAT = 41*F)
Results ;
4.5" group
All 5 shots printed in a vertical line !

Ive tried seating the bullet from 2.2" (COAL) to 1.9" (COAL), increasing & decreasing powder weight : all producing high ES (75-150 fps), BUT all shots printed in a vertical line !
The above combo proved to be the lowest & most accurate load, yet.

Have i reached the max potential that the rifle can achieve, or is there something im missing in my equation...

Allenski wrote: ↑Fri Oct 25, 2019 8:46 pm Brass ; Lapua - trimmed to 1.3560" / Flash hole drilled out to 7/64" (0.109")

I'll never claim to have seen it all but I've never seen or known anyone to drill out a flash hole in blackout brass, or any brass for that matter.

Did you clean and deburr the inside after drilling?

SwampDog_13 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 27, 2019 7:34 am

Allenski wrote: ↑Fri Oct 25, 2019 8:46 pm Brass ; Lapua - trimmed to 1.3560" / Flash hole drilled out to 7/64" (0.109")

I'll never claim to have seen it all but I've never seen or known anyone to drill out a flash hole in blackout brass, or any brass for that matter.

Did you clean and deburr the inside after drilling?

Yes, using a Flash Hole Deburring Tool

SwampDog_13 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 27, 2019 7:34 am

Allenski wrote: ↑Fri Oct 25, 2019 8:46 pm Brass ; Lapua - trimmed to 1.3560" / Flash hole drilled out to 7/64" (0.109")

I'll never claim to have seen it all but I've never seen or known anyone to drill out a flash hole in blackout brass, or any brass for that matter.

Did you clean and deburr the inside after drilling?

I experimented with it a bit in an effort to lower ES with subs. Results were not positive.

bangbangping wrote: ↑Sun Oct 27, 2019 9:50 am

SwampDog_13 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 27, 2019 7:34 am

Allenski wrote: ↑Fri Oct 25, 2019 8:46 pm Brass ; Lapua - trimmed to 1.3560" / Flash hole drilled out to 7/64" (0.109")

I'll never claim to have seen it all but I've never seen or known anyone to drill out a flash hole in blackout brass, or any brass for that matter.

Did you clean and deburr the inside after drilling?

I experimented with it a bit in an effort to lower ES with subs. Results were not positive.

Enlarging a flash hole with a fine grain powder that is low density can make ES even worse. You get varying amounts of powder down into the primer changing ignition. What some people do is slide a thin piece of paper between the primer and case when priming. This stamps a seal that keeps powder out of the primer.

As for high spreads with the bullet and powder in question, the only options are seating depth and crimp to help stabilize burn. I would probably use the .328 bushing and maybe adjust the die so it only sizes halfway down the neck.