Just got my stamps back for suppreesed and SBR.
I have a SilencerCo Omega 300
I am in the process of putting together a 300 with the following desires:
1. short as possible with the following abilities
shoot subs and supers reliably with the can
quieter the subs the better and stay less than 10 1/2" barrel
What barrel length would be best and what twist considering I'll be using subs and supers?
I will be reloading ( any starting load data would be appreciated)
The can will probably be on most the time, any comments about having handguards over some/most of the can?
Maybe something like
https://www.apexhandguard.com/2300-ar15 ... handguard/
Any experience with the c-5 gas system?
https://columbiariverarms.com/gas-systems/
Thanks in advance
New member needs upper set up advice
Moderators: gds, bakerjw, renegade
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- New Member
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Re: New member needs upper set up advice
C5 gas system "Eliminates gas tube fires from unburnt powder accumulation in the gas tube"
Re: New member needs upper set up advice
I really like the way the can " under the ff tube " looks . I really dislike the real world effects of doing that .
Cans work by slowing and COOLING the gasses of the shot , since energy cannot be destroyed , only converted they convert the energy primarily into heat . This heat radiating from the can to the handguard has a profound effect a lot faster than one would think it should because AL is an excellent transmitter of heat . For comfortable shooting keep the can on the outside of the handguard and let it radiate into space where your hands aren't
Cans work by slowing and COOLING the gasses of the shot , since energy cannot be destroyed , only converted they convert the energy primarily into heat . This heat radiating from the can to the handguard has a profound effect a lot faster than one would think it should because AL is an excellent transmitter of heat . For comfortable shooting keep the can on the outside of the handguard and let it radiate into space where your hands aren't
- thisguysguns
- Silent But Deadly
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Re: New member needs upper set up advice
I've got an 9" barrel, 1 in 8" twist. Runs supers and subs excellently. I've got a Silencerco Harvester 30 that sits inside the handguard and I don't think I've ever gotten it hot enough with subs to radiate enough heat to make the handguard hot. I'm also running a piston, so if anything, it should be getting extra hot.
Funny enough, I've got a carbine Gator Grip handguard from Apex Machining on a different gun, and it is really nice. Since you aren't running a piston (yes, I'm a snob and all of my guns are piston), your handguard won't get as hot as mine does. Nonetheless, I kind of agree with others that if you want to fully enjoy that SBR, keep the rail shorter than the barrel. I'm not recommending it because of heat concerns, I just find that the gun handles better when not using the can if the handguard is also short like the barrel. Just my two cents...
Back to heat, I mainly shoot subs. If I'm shooting supers, the can hardly ever gets scorching hot unless I dump mags, which I don't do anyway since I don't want to hurt my precious non-full-auto rated can... and 300 blackout is too expensive for me to dump mags. If your handguards are getting hot from proximity to the can, that can has to be stupid hot or touching the handguard. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Whatever barrel length you decide to do, I'd highly recommend you stick with a pistol length gas system. There are some companies out there selling 10" barrels with carbine length gas ports, and I don't recommend that for sub reliability.
For handloading subs of 210gr and heavier, I recommend Accurate 1680, but it can be a bit dirty, and isn't necessarily the quietest... but it's reliable. Accurate 5744 kind of runs in the same category as 1680 as well. I've had buddies get really good results using Alliant Blue Dot with subs, but I've never tried it myself.
For supers, my go to is Alliant 300-MP. I can't remember the exact load data off the top of my head, but Speer 125gr TNT projectiles with over 300-MP net good velocities and accuracy.
You will find a treasure trove of knowledge on this forum site. Use the search function to look for various load data and results. The quaint nature of this forum can be deceiving, but the regulars on this forum probably represent the greatest accumulation of 300 blackout knowledge on the interwebs.
Funny enough, I've got a carbine Gator Grip handguard from Apex Machining on a different gun, and it is really nice. Since you aren't running a piston (yes, I'm a snob and all of my guns are piston), your handguard won't get as hot as mine does. Nonetheless, I kind of agree with others that if you want to fully enjoy that SBR, keep the rail shorter than the barrel. I'm not recommending it because of heat concerns, I just find that the gun handles better when not using the can if the handguard is also short like the barrel. Just my two cents...
Back to heat, I mainly shoot subs. If I'm shooting supers, the can hardly ever gets scorching hot unless I dump mags, which I don't do anyway since I don't want to hurt my precious non-full-auto rated can... and 300 blackout is too expensive for me to dump mags. If your handguards are getting hot from proximity to the can, that can has to be stupid hot or touching the handguard. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Whatever barrel length you decide to do, I'd highly recommend you stick with a pistol length gas system. There are some companies out there selling 10" barrels with carbine length gas ports, and I don't recommend that for sub reliability.
For handloading subs of 210gr and heavier, I recommend Accurate 1680, but it can be a bit dirty, and isn't necessarily the quietest... but it's reliable. Accurate 5744 kind of runs in the same category as 1680 as well. I've had buddies get really good results using Alliant Blue Dot with subs, but I've never tried it myself.
For supers, my go to is Alliant 300-MP. I can't remember the exact load data off the top of my head, but Speer 125gr TNT projectiles with over 300-MP net good velocities and accuracy.
You will find a treasure trove of knowledge on this forum site. Use the search function to look for various load data and results. The quaint nature of this forum can be deceiving, but the regulars on this forum probably represent the greatest accumulation of 300 blackout knowledge on the interwebs.
$1.35 a day... Best job I ever had.
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- New Member
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Re: New member needs upper set up advice
thanks guys, i was hoping a 9" would be acceptable but I wasn't sure about the 1/8 twist.
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Re: New member needs upper set up advice
I have one of the AAC SBR’s. It uses a 9” 1/7 twist.
Supers from 90-150gn
Subs from 210-250
Can or no can (although mine wears its can 24/7)
I figure if AAC, who brought the caliber mainstream, likes that combo its good enough for me
Supers from 90-150gn
Subs from 210-250
Can or no can (although mine wears its can 24/7)
I figure if AAC, who brought the caliber mainstream, likes that combo its good enough for me
Re: New member needs upper set up advice
Congrats on the long wait!mikeblackout wrote: What barrel length would be best and what twist considering I'll be using subs and supers?
I will be reloading ( any starting load data would be appreciated)
The can will probably be on most the time, any comments about having handguards over some/most of the can?
Maybe something like
https://www.apexhandguard.com/2300-ar15 ... handguard/
Thanks in advance
I like the look of a suppressor tucked under the handguard. You may have issues removing the suppressor if in quick-attach mode if it is tucked under, and the handguard might get warmer, esp if you prefer a C-style grip (versus a foregrip or similar).
I just picked up a strike industries handguard and like it - they design it so that most suppressors can tuck under it AND has a channel underneath to attach MLOK or KeyMod rail sections that will NOT be impacted by the suppressor diameter. This would allow you to put a foregrip or bipod or light or similar up front under the suppressor... Very comfortable in my hands (large) and my wife's (small)..
Reloading is a whole 'nuther ball of wax. Check out the reloading section of this forum - lots of good information.
- thisguysguns
- Silent But Deadly
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- Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2015 4:20 pm
Re: New member needs upper set up advice
THIS THIS THIS^^^Sithlord wrote:Congrats on the long wait!mikeblackout wrote: What barrel length would be best and what twist considering I'll be using subs and supers?
I will be reloading ( any starting load data would be appreciated)
The can will probably be on most the time, any comments about having handguards over some/most of the can?
Maybe something like
https://www.apexhandguard.com/2300-ar15 ... handguard/
Thanks in advance
I like the look of a suppressor tucked under the handguard. You may have issues removing the suppressor if in quick-attach mode if it is tucked under, and the handguard might get warmer, esp if you prefer a C-style grip (versus a foregrip or similar).
I just picked up a strike industries handguard and like it - they design it so that most suppressors can tuck under it AND has a channel underneath to attach MLOK or KeyMod rail sections that will NOT be impacted by the suppressor diameter. This would allow you to put a foregrip or bipod or light or similar up front under the suppressor... Very comfortable in my hands (large) and my wife's (small)..
Reloading is a whole 'nuther ball of wax. Check out the reloading section of this forum - lots of good information.
The whole reason I can't use the micro ASR mount is because my suppressor sits under my handguard. I completely forgot about that, and that is a VERY important aspect of your handguard choice!!
$1.35 a day... Best job I ever had.
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