Recessed suppressor/silencer SBR regrets

[Walkers Bay]

You must have one of the older Yankee Hill Phantoms like I do.

Speaking as someone who had a baffle strike on a can (value of the can $700.00, tax stamp $200.00, paperwork $40.00) I do everything I can to prevent another baffle strike. Suppressors in New Zealand has a diffent value than the USA. The use of suppressors entails a learning curve quite different from most shooting sports. Take all the advice you can get.

Oh that strike must have hurt.
What was the bore diameter? I've always had suppressors and never given a strike much thought Iin a centre fire.I have had a .22 can that would touch the projectiles and chuck an odd pattern but I just threw it away and got another figured that it was just Chinese crap.

I did see a blown up one last week. The dude cleaned it with brake cleaner then refitted and fired it. The eexpansion chamber behind the intenall brake opened up like a pipe bomb.

[KTMRacer]

I use a 8.25" barrel and a 9" rail so the supressor / barrel connect is slightly under the rail (like I wanted). When doing load testing I thread my KAK flash can back on it. Just that simple. Oh yeah, another reason I went direct thread on the can.
No regrets here.

[JG300]

If you're worried about the rear endcap unscrewing from the tube when you're trying to remove it from the gun, simply put 2 or 3 setscrews through the tube and into the rear endcap portion. It's no longer a problem.

I know that many people would gasp at that idea and are afraid to look at silencers the wrong way, but problem solved in a few seconds with a drill, a minute or two with a little tap to thread it, and you're done.

If you don't like that idea, try some plumbers Teflon tape. If it doesn't get too hot and melt, which I suppose would be a possibility.

If I were direct threading an omega under a hand guard, rather than drill and tap the $1100 suppressor, I would buy another 5/8x24 rear thread mount and torque it to the barrel with a touch of rockset just like a muzzle device. Install the handguard over that. There are wrench flats on the rear thread mounts for the omega. Then just thread the can on and off the mount.

[Boolit_Head]

I'm still waiting on my stamp to be approved but I'm using a kak flash can on a 7.5 inch barrel with a 9 inch BAR hand guard. That puts the end of the flash can past the end of the hand guard. When the stamp is approved the can will be about a inch and a half under the guard.

[BillJ]

On my 9" barrel gun my solution was to buy 2 hand guards. Run the 7" one without the suppressor, and the 12" one with.
Its only a few screws to swap and makes it look nice.

My suppressor is a Form 1 build that uses a D size Ti mag lite tube. Before I bought the second hand guard, I just used an old mag lite as a blast shield. So that is also an option if you are going that way.

[Boolit_Head]

Almost a before and after pic of my 7.4 inch barrel. Still not drilled till both stamps comes through. Than it will get some ceracoat and a red dot. Using the scope for accuracy testing right now. Easier than using a big dot. Just requires a bit of thought so it works both ways.

[Overton-AR]

I know I am in the minority.......but I hated mine after it was built. I had a 9" barrel with a 12" Seekins handguard. It looked cool, but I really didn't like it. The handguards ahve to be VERY LARGE and I really prefer the newer slimmer KMR style rails.

To me the downsides mandated that I go another way.....so I sold the 12" rail and went with an 8" KMR rail. I am very happy now. For me the downsides were.....

1 - Heat coming through the rail.
2 - Suppressor endcap sticks to the mount and unthreading from the tube.
3 - Large and uncomfortable rail.
4 - Cannot shoot without the suppressor (this is only a downside for some.....unsuppressed SUCKS)

[John A.]

I use the Teflon tape on the barrel threads to adapter. Two wraps is enough in the same direction as the threads. Since I'm not into rapid fire, I've not noticed a melting issue.

I'd worry about the legality of drilling the rear end cap and set screws. Would this be legal for the average Joe?

I can't think of a reason or prior example why one couldn't.

You're not manufacturing any suppressor parts, or not manufacturing any thing for that matter.

It doesn't make it more quiet. It doesn't make it longer or suppress more effectively.

Those have always been the big "no-no's" in the suppressor Form 1 world.

I suppose on a similar train of thought, you can legally drill and tap a receiver (which in the eyes of the law is the firearm), so I can't think of how adding 2 set screws could be perceived any differently in the same precedent.

Would probably void the crap out of a warranty though. But is another example of why I like designing and building my own suppressors. I have the final say in matters such as this.

[golfindia]

I know I am in the minority.......but I hated mine after it was built.

To me the downsides mandated that I go another way.....so I sold the 12" rail and went with an 8" KMR rail. I am very happy now. For me the downsides were.....

1 - Heat coming through the rail.
2 - Suppressor endcap sticks to the mount and unthreading from the tube.
3 - Large and uncomfortable rail.
4 - Cannot shoot without the suppressor (this is only a downside for some.....unsuppressed SUCKS)

I agree with all of these, i have a rail that extends past the barrel on only one rifle, a 9mm. It's bearable because it doesnt get that hot. I use a pistol can which is much smaller dia than rifle models, so i didnt need to use a huge rail. The thread/tube adapter staying on the barrel sucks, one of these days I'm just going to buy another one for the other uses and just loctite one on the 9mm. I definitely would not set up a gun like this with a rifle can, too much of a pain.

[SuedePflow]

I regretted my recessed set-up. It looked great though. Primary two reasons that I didn't like it:

1) It was heavier than it needed to be. Upon buying a new shipping scale, I weighed all of my AR's and my SBR was my heaviest by a long shot. I've grown to dislike long and large diameter quad rails.

2) With a non-direct thread suppressor like the 762sdn6, it required breaking out the torx and removing and reinstalling 8 little screws every time I wanted to remove the suppressor to use it on another rifle. This got old really quick.


I pulled a full pound of weight out of my SBR with the change of the hand guard and stock and I'm very happy with the change.