I keep getting asked if these are still for sale...... YES 300 BLACKOUT IN STOCK; COSMETICALLY BLEMISHED $40, NORMAL $45.
Blemished work 100% but may have deeper than normal clamp marks, minor chatter on a cut, discolored or pitted anodizingWe also have a few SLOTTED Sheridan Case gauges. Add $55 to any jig purchase and we will throw one in!I have switched all jigs to Mil-Spec Type III hard anodizing.
This should do several things,
one lengthen an already long service life,
two hold lubricants better and
three some people just want cool stuff.These jigs are $45 (cosmetically blemished are $40)
ppal or usps mo I pay shipping and fees.I also have:
5.56 to 7.62x25 t]Tokarov jigs finished and hard anodized, $40
5.56 to TCM 22 jigs hard anodized , $40
5.56 to 7.62x40 WT jigs, hard anodized $50
I have made a tool to aid those of us using a Harbor freight chop saw.
This jig simply bolts in with the supplied bolts and greatly speeds and "standardizes" the rough cut off operation. Using this jig gives you a rough cut case a few thousands long with a nice even mouth. No more uneven mouths catching on the final trimmer!
The just cut case gets ejected under spring power out the right side a couple inches and the next snaps in place!
This means your right hand never has to leave the saw handle and your left hand is feeding the cases.
Rarely you will find a case hangs up. Almost always it is a damaged rim. I usually shoot a little shot of thin lubricant (Hornady one shot, silicone lube etc) into the jig before using if it has been sitting a few days and everything runs smoothly.
Here's the saw it is designed for. (pretty cheap from Harbor Freight) The CHICAGO ELECTRIC SAW IS THE SAME AS IS THE ORANGE AMAZON VERSION
link to current saw version, be sure to get the 20% off coupon!http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top- ... 42307.html
THIS IS THE VIDEO, CLICK THE PICTUREIF YOU PAYPAL it is $40 blemished or $45 normal fees included,
PLEASE include this forum name (If you are a member
), your screen name(if you are a member
), real name, address and Blackout jig I have noticed that the notes customers put on the paypal do not always show up...If you are not on this forum that is OK too! Ppal to firstname.lastname@example.org
do not assume ppal puts your address on the pmt info. sometimes it does not.
Some people do not like Paypal (for good reason) so if you want to send a USPS MO (USPS ONLY) drop me a pm.
I ship in order of payment received, if you want to USPS MO I will add you in line at time of receipt.
I pride myself on fast shipping, I often ship the same day, HOWEVER, please understand I have a "real" job and it can delay me from mailing for a couple of business days. I ship first class with tracking info. I cannot realistically get everyone a tracking number PM'd to them but if you are worried about your jig please PM me and we will track it.
Here are the installation instructions, please read them if you buy the jig they really do help it go quickly.
UNPLUG THE SAW.
Remove the thumb screw on the left side of the clamp, catch and save the little nut that falls out from underneath, you'll need it later.
Rock the clamp assembly until it comes out, set aside.
The hole that used to have the pivot in it (right side) will need to be threaded. The supplied bolt is fully capable of doing it but
you must keep it vertical as you tighten it. Place the bolt in the jig and then put the jig on the saw.
Carefully align and with downward pressure tighten the Allen head bolt until it just touches the top of the jig.**OR** use the supplied bolt and thread the base from below. Once the bolt has cut the threads remove and install from the top.
Install the left side bolt and the nut you saved from earlier.
I would strongly suggest you not remove the saw unit from the base, the return spring can be difficult to reinstall. Make sure the saw blade is tight and not on backwards, this is the cause of almost all slow cutting and saw burn out.
Next lower the saw blade and slide the jig up to about the thickness of a 3x5" index card (.010") from the side of the blade.
Let the saw blade go up while holding the jig in place. Snug the right bolt.
Now push the left side of the jig back towards the saw's hinge slightly. The jig should be SLIGHTLY crooked when you look down on it.
Tighten the left bolt then the right.
Clamp, bolt, screw or otherwise secure the saw to the work bench.
*********Spray with a light lubricant.************
Cut a test piece of brass. I like to cut them to about 1.365" to 1.370" and then finish trim them.
If the brass is too long or short for your taste adjust the jig towards or away from the blade as needed.
If the brass mouth is cut at an angle, adjust the left side of the jig as needed to correct.
Before you turn on the saw and start cutting a bunch of cases, practice the insertion of brass several times to get a feel for it.
Sizing the brass first will often speed things up, it removes the little bulges that can slow ejection. Also run a swab or bore brush through the jig periodically to wipe out trash.
As you use and lube the jig, case operation will get noticeably smoother and faster.About 4% of these saws have a different base, you may need to add a few washers under the bolt heads or 1% of the saws add a nut to the bottom of the right bolt.
pack block linkviewtopic.php?f=179&t=82863
lower vise block linkviewtopic.php?f=179&t=82996