Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

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JeffWard
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Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

Post by JeffWard »

I just got in my SilencerCo Omega suppressor. I'm running it direct-thread under a rail to kee the rail as long as possible, and the gun as short as possible.

When I'm removing the can, the direct thread mount is staying attached to the barrel, and the can is threading OFF the mount. This requires removing the rail/hand0-guard to remove the DT mount! GRRR... It's a PITA.

I'm tightening down the mount to the can as directed, hand tight, with the tool, but the barrel threads seem to grab even tighter.

Suggestions? I don't want the can to walk off the barrel threads, and I cannot get to the lock collar under the hand-guard to run it with a QD break.

Anybody have this issue and a solution? Maybe a solid shim between the barrel shoulder and can?

JW
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orbitup
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Re: Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

Post by orbitup »

Maybe put loctite on the mount and anti-seize on the barrel?
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JeffWard
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Re: Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

Post by JeffWard »

I am hesitant to put Loctite on the mount because I would like to be able to switch to a half inch 5.56 host on a regular basis.
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dellet
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Re: Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

Post by dellet »

All 5/8"x24 threads are not created equal.

This happens a lot when one side is tap/die cut and the mating threads are lathe cut. The angles or depth of cut becomes an interference fit. I would check with the manufacturer and follow their advice so there is not any finger pointing if you have a baffle strike.

A little very fine lapping compound and threading it on and off a couple times would cure the fit.

Thunder beast is very clear on this because of the type of problem you are having and posts thread dimensions.
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DoubleJ
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Re: Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

Post by DoubleJ »

Not sure if the heat would be an issue, but teflon tape around the threads you want to stay might snug them up a bit without anything chemical like loctite.

Something else to try would be a dab of that orange goop that you put on the back of brake pads to keep them from squealing. I've used that stuff for years to keep fasteners from backing out of my 2 stroke dirtbikes. They vibrate something fierce, and it has just enough hold to keep them from moving, but they come out with a wrench with no trouble. If you try it, try literally just a smear, that stuff is a mess. Rated to 500 degrees or something though.
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willisjf07
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Re: Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

Post by willisjf07 »

I ran into the same issue with my Omega but actually preferred it that way as I only use the direct thread on my SBR so as I take the suppressor off, its ready to mount to the QD mount for the next gun. Obviously if you're using the 5/8x24 direct thread on another gun, this won't apply to you....but if not, I wouldn't worry about it.

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Re: Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

Post by JeffWard »

[quote="willisjf07"]I ran into the same issue with my Omega but actually preferred it that way as I only use the direct thread on my SBR so as I take the suppressor off, its ready to mount to the QD mount for the next gun. Obviously if you're using the 5/8x24 direct thread on another gun, this won't apply to you....but if not, I wouldn't worry about it.

That's a good point... I could just leave the 12X28 direct thread on my 5.56 SBR... LOL

Most likely, I'll be using a break and QD on my 308. Length is less of an issue, and blast chamber erosion is!

JW
Guns are tools designed for dirty work both competitive and defensive. If I meet someone with a well worn gun, I hope their barrel is pointed the same direction as mine if the lead starts flying...
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Dr.Phil
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Re: Under-rail Suppressor Issue...

Post by Dr.Phil »

FWIW,
If you use anti-seize, it has to be nickel or moly based.
The standard stuff that you get at an auto parts store cannot stand up to the temps.

Also, if you use anti-seize, it adds just enough material to the threads to keep it from coming loose while shooting.
Other lubricants on the threads will allow it to come loose under use.

As to Teflon tape, not a good idea.
It can't hold up to the temp either and when it cooks off is VERY toxic.

My recommendation is to use Nickel Anti-Seize on the barrel threads and shoot a few hundred rounds.
The mount will carbon up and will not break loose before the barrel threads.
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