smustian wrote:From what I have read, the teflon tape can melt and become a real mess to get out of the threads.
Teflon tape works perfect! But only if you use ONE WRAP around the threads. I made the mistake of wrapping the threads 3-4 times, torqued my can on as hard as I could, and had to take it to a machine shop in order to unscrew it.
The tape had not melted to the barrel, it was just on extremely tight.
do you prefer the traditional greyish stuff? or the fancy new tan "woodweld" a better grade to use for this?
Reloading info shared is based on experiences w/ my guns. Be safe and work up your loads from published data. Web data may not be accurate/safe.
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Plant... Get a girlfriend (not the vinyl or latex kind), tell her she looks fat in her favorite dress then hold the suppressor joint in front of her laser stare. Wear gloves as the metal WILL heat up. Should look like a TIG weld when done.
I'm not sure if it'll work on a rifle, but I can't see why not. They make this bright neon orange goop for keeping your brakes from squealing on cars. You apply it to the rear of the pads, let it set up for a while, and then assemble everything. I discovered years ago that if you put it on bolts, they don't fall out of your 2 stroke dirtbike while you're riding. Once it dries, it's not messy, just kinda rubbery, and since it's rated for automotive brakes, 500 degrees or so, I'd guess it'd hold up to can heat with no problems. A bottle of the stuff is like 4 bucks at Autozone and will last about forever, I think mine is a decade old, and I have a lot of dirtbikes.
I do not reply to posts with horrific grammar errors.
I do not reply to posts concerning the case mouth dent.
I use the nickel anti-seize, but stick check the can to make sure it's tight after each 10 rounds or so. I also remove my can while still warm when I'm done shooting to keep the condensation that's built up in the can from migrating into the barrel.
I don't understand this, why a copper smear and small chip would cause this.
plant.one wrote:the endcap is never coming out of the tube again
No matter what you read on the intarweb CCI450s and CCI41s ARE NOT BALLISTICALLY IDENTICAL with H110! I'm also not a intarweb lawyer so I don't argue with anyone who is.
tfbit wrote:I don't understand this, why a copper smear and small chip would cause this.
plant.one wrote:the endcap is never coming out of the tube again
a copper jacketed projectile hit a steel endcap hard enough to chip the inside edge. i'm sure it stretched the threads - either on the endcap or the titanium tube its screwed into.... or both. its locked up tighter than a fishes butthole.
i had the endcap clamped into a vise and got the strap wrench out and still wont break loose. at that point i decided it was staying where it was, forever .
i'm sure if i worked hard enough i could get it to unscrew, but i'm not willing to throw away my stamp trying to remove an endcap that never needs come out anyway.
Reloading info shared is based on experiences w/ my guns. Be safe and work up your loads from published data. Web data may not be accurate/safe.
This disclaimer will self destruct in 10 seconds.