45 Octane Question

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gunfan2
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45 Octane Question

Post by gunfan2 »

I have had mine for about 2 months now, so I decided to take it part and clean it. There seems to be a lot of lead build up on the baffles. Took a wire brush and it knocked off the outside rather easy. Is this a problem that I am going to continue to have. Been shooting several cast powder coated 300 blackout subsonic loads through as well as several 9 mm cast powder coated bullets. Whats the best thing to get this off. Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.
batman4706
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by batman4706 »

I tumble my baffles in stainless steel pins.
gunfan2
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by gunfan2 »

batman4706 wrote:I tumble my baffles in stainless steel pins.
Will the stainless pens remove the lead deposits? And what kind of cleaner do you use in the tumbler?
TMD
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by TMD »

I have an Octane 45 as well and also clean it with ss pins in a wet tumbler. All I use is a dash of lemishine and some dawn dish soap. Only takes a few hours to clean. Also FWIW if you're getting leading then I would look at your reloading procedures or barrel. If the bullets are sized and crimped properly there shouldn't any leading.
gunfan2
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by gunfan2 »

TMD wrote:I have an Octane 45 as well and also clean it with ss pins in a wet tumbler. All I use is a dash of lemishine and some dawn dish soap. Only takes a few hours to clean. Also FWIW if you're getting leading then I would look at your reloading procedures or barrel. If the bullets are sized and crimped properly there shouldn't any leading.
Well I think I made the mistake of shooting some 22lr through it out of curiosity along with some store bought 230 grain lead cast bullets that were not powder coated and I think that might have been what caused the leading. I cleaned it today with a lot of elbow grease and got the lead off. Shot a box of powder coated 9 mm 147 cast and didn't show any signs of leading.
battering ram
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by battering ram »

put it in a dip of 50% peroxide and 50% vinegar

most will wipe right off...you will still need a screw driver in the blast chamber area....but if your lucky like me the blast chamber will unthread by accident and you will have better access to it

i own a Octane .45 and the cleaning makes it worthless....spend 5-10 mins of bullets actually going through it and then spend 2 hours cleaning it.....it just becomes stupid and gimmicky....

for my .223 i bought a can that you dont clean and for my .22lr i bought a Sparrow with a monocore that you dont clean (only the sides)...i learned my lesson on my Octane....spending hours scraping carbon off a blast chamber is not a hobby for me
13brv3
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by 13brv3 »

I learned a lot about lead buildup from 300BO powder coated bullets. I've never been able to make those stop leading, so I finally resolved to only shoot FMJ rounds. For the amount I shoot, the extra cost is preferable to cleaning lead.

For cleaning, I've tried most everything. For the Octane at least you can take the thing apart, and I've used a tumbler with SS pins, an ultrasonic cleaner with purple power, and of course the old standby screwdrivers and picks. My Saker 762 was severely leaded, and I ended up dipping it for days. Of course anyone who plans to use the dip needs to read up on the safety precautions.

As for monitoring lead buildup, an accurate scale is the best way. Weigh the suppressor when clean (ideally when new), then track the weight. Better yet, use only FMJ.

Cheers,
Rusty
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shadepuppy
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by shadepuppy »

I also have an Octane 45, went a little too long this time , what a mess , also my blast chamber is loose and comes right out. I am tired of scrubbing as ram noted it's just not worth it. So I am ordering the tumbler, my only question for those who use the tumbling method.....I assume baffles only .....not front caps or blast caps,or anything that may be aluminum or threaded....correct ?????

thanks
batman4706
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by batman4706 »

None of the cerakoted parts. You'll be happy how they turn out. If you reload they make your brass like new,including the primer pockets.
cdl
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Re: 45 Octane Question

Post by cdl »

The problem lead seems to condense on the metal under the carbon, you really don't see it, so I clean first.

Search the web for the ultimate carbon cleaner and you will find high heat, high alkaline cleaner and agitation. You NEED all three. The most convenient "high alkaline" cleaner I've found is Oven, Grill & Fryer Cleaner from Sams Club, liquid, in a 3pk, though we'd use hot lye in my younger days for stubborn messes. ALUMINIUM PARTS WILL DISSOLVE (like the Octane caps). It will strip the sealer and dye right out of andonizeing or strip the Cerakote on say suppressor tubes or bolt carriers. That slippery feeling between your fingers, is your skin dissolving...

Pour hot water in the ultrasonic cleaner. Set the temp above 70 degrees Centigrade. Pour enough oven cleaner in to color the water a bit. Drop in the basket of baffles, the cage, springs, SS parts from the 3-lug, etc.. Walk away and let it run. My cycle goes for 30 minutes, so I'll rinse the basket and change the mud after a cycle and do it once more quick as a rinse. Usually this is all it takes even with my Spectre.

But for any remaining lead, I'll then use vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, 50:50,... in a glass jar. Let it fizz. Then rinse. Scrupulously avoid contact with children.

Lead is really only a stuck on issue if I'm shooting lots of cast. I bought 100k H&G #68's that I've been trying to shoot up. I need to use a Lewis Lead Remover on the barrel with them.... Yup, that's real leading, but they shoot so well.

I'll throw the suppressor parts in a can of hot DOT 5, silicon oil when I'm done too. Then reassemble. The parts are pristine when done and it's hardly a hassle.
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