Looking SBR advice, knowledge, and some confirmation.

[TexasEric]

My wife has already, noticed my head has been buried in this form for the last few days. I have learned so much.

I am executing my trust soon. My intent is to either purchase or have a custom built sbr AR style 300. Bbl length will be 9-10.5 inches. This will be a range toy, in home defense gun, and maybe a fun hog gun. Mainly a quite range fun toy though. As quite as an Ar can be on factory ammo, cycling creates a bunch of noise.
I intend to shoot mostly factory suppressed subsonic, and supersonic at the range. Also intend keep a mag of subsonic high expansion at the house. I believe 1:7 twist rate would be best all around for my goal.

I am a bit torn, I already have a Fulton Armory Ar in 308. Not sure if I should suppress that 1st, or do the 300 build/buy.

I may be shooting supers without a surppressor for a long while, if I do the 300 BO first. I am mainly looking for advice. It is always nice to get input from other minds. Here are more questions.

I believe custom build would give me the best accuracy, is this correct?
Will a 1:7 twist negatively affect the lighter supersonic rounds?
What are generally considered to be the most accurate sbr barrels at these lengths?

I know Rainer arms super match barrels are great accuracy wise. I have seen good results here, and at another forum from different members. What other barrels have consistently great accuracy, considering they are SBRs up to 10.5 inches.

I am looking for MOA accuracy with factory supers, and the best accuracy with subs I can get a hundred yards. I know subs may suck at that distance. Anything inside of 50 yards I want to be near MOA.

I know the uppers and barrel will be pricey. Let's keep the barrel under $400 ish please. What do you guys have positive hands on experience with?
I apologize in advance for the length of this post, and if I sound insane.

[Alex Wilson]

Why would you pay $1500+ for an SBR build? My experiences in looking at SBR builds is they are all overpriced. You really should build it. One you'll get exactly what you want, learn the firearm and save money. AR's are very easy to build.

Build your gun as a pistol and apply for the stamp. That way you can shoot it all you want for the 8 month wait. If you buy an SBR your gun will sit in jail for 8 months until its cleared. Makes no sense to me.

As for what barrel you buy, you're gonna get a ton of different answers. I have 2 300's. One a 16in rifle and a 10in SBR. I built both. The 10in is all noveske parts. I bought the 10in barrel with bolt. It's as accurate as I want it to be. Below is the link. $400 at Rainier.

As for your accuracy wants, you really should learn to reload. I think you'll be hard pressed to find the requirements you want without loading yourself. I couldn't find any factory ammo that gave me the accuracy I wanted.

https://www.rainierarms.com/noveske-300 ... -2-hs-bolt

[John A.]

Why couldn't you purchase a 308 suppressor and use it on both guns? 308 and 300 blackout are the same bullet diameter, and will work on both just fine.

As for the blackout barrel length, 10 or 10.5 is more quiet than the shorter lengths because there is more room for the powder to achieve full burn when shooting subs prior to it entering the suppressor.

If the powder is still burning when it reaches the suppressor, there will be more "first round pop". If there is less or no powder burning still, it will be more quiet.

I have a short 8.5" barrel and I have had to switch to fast burning pistol powder to get it moderately quiet.

[TexasEric]

Why would you pay $1500+ for an SBR build? My experiences in looking at SBR builds is they are all overpriced. You really should build it. One you'll get exactly what you want, learn the firearm and save money. AR's are very easy to build.

Build your gun as a pistol and apply for the stamp. That way you can shoot it all you want for the 8 month wait. If you buy an SBR your gun will sit in jail for 8 months until its cleared. Makes no sense to me.

As for what barrel you buy, you're gonna get a ton of different answers. I have 2 300's. One a 16in rifle and a 10in SBR. I built both. The 10in is all noveske parts. I bought the 10in barrel with bolt. It's as accurate as I want it to be. Below is the link. $400 at Rainier.

As for your accuracy wants, you really should learn to reload. I think you'll be hard pressed to find the requirements you want without loading yourself. I couldn't find any factory ammo that gave me the accuracy I wanted.

https://www.rainierarms.com/noveske-300 ... -2-hs-bolt

I don't have the tools or space to build an AR or reload right now.

I totally agree about the cost of a prebuilt custom, and building a pistol 1st. It sounds as though you do agree with ordering the parts I want for assembly. I was already looking at Noveski and Rainer barrels. Rainer especially. I want good barrel suggestions.
Thanks for the input, I appreciate the data.

I have seen the results I want on this forum and another with factory ammo, so I know it is possible.

viewtopic.php?f=152&t=100310&p=967348&h ... er#p967348

Please feel free to give more info in the future. Especially with the other questions I had as well. I am not trying to be sarcastic, I want all the info I can get!

[TexasEric]

Why couldn't you purchase a 308 suppressor and use it on both guns? 308 and 300 blackout are the same bullet diameter, and will work on both just fine.

As for the blackout barrel length, 10 or 10.5 is more quiet than the shorter lengths because there is more room for the powder to achieve full burn when shooting subs prior to it entering the suppressor.

If the powder is still burning when it reaches the suppressor, there will be more "first round pop". If there is less or no powder burning still, it will be more quiet.

I have a short 8.5" barrel and I have had to switch to fast burning pistol powder to get it moderately quiet.

That is exactly my intention. The my issues is that I can't allocate the funds to purchase a surpressor and buy all the parts for the 300 build simultaneously. We have a baby girl due in May. So one will have so wait a bit, which is why I am torn.

Thanks for the info on barrel length! I didn't know why shorter barrels were louder. This will definitely push me to 10.5 barrel then.

[TexasEric]

Thanks for the feedback so far. Please chime in with twist rate, good barrel, upper receiver info too please. I am also looking as the SLR sentry 7 adjustable gas block and tube.

[GSO]

Why would you pay $1500+ for an SBR build? My experiences in looking at SBR builds is they are all overpriced. You really should build it. One you'll get exactly what you want, learn the firearm and save money. AR's are very easy to build.

Build your gun as a pistol and apply for the stamp. That way you can shoot it all you want for the 8 month wait. If you buy an SBR your gun will sit in jail for 8 months until its cleared. Makes no sense to me.

As for what barrel you buy, you're gonna get a ton of different answers. I have 2 300's. One a 16in rifle and a 10in SBR. I built both. The 10in is all noveske parts. I bought the 10in barrel with bolt. It's as accurate as I want it to be. Below is the link. $400 at Rainier.

As for your accuracy wants, you really should learn to reload. I think you'll be hard pressed to find the requirements you want without loading yourself. I couldn't find any factory ammo that gave me the accuracy I wanted.

https://www.rainierarms.com/noveske-300 ... -2-hs-bolt

I don't have the tools or space to build an AR or reload right now.

I totally agree about the cost of a prebuilt custom, and building a pistol 1st. It sounds as though you do agree with ordering the parts I want for assembly. I was already looking at Noveski and Rainer barrels. Rainer especially. I want good barrel suggestions.
Thanks for the input, I appreciate the data.

I have seen the results I want on this forum and another with factory ammo, so I know it is possible.

viewtopic.php?f=152&t=100310&p=967348&h ... er#p967348

Please feel free to give more info in the future. Especially with the other questions I had as well. I am not trying to be sarcastic, I want all the info I can get!

Based on this, I would recommend buying a complete upper (the hard part that requires special tools) and building a pistol lower. There are a couple of tools that make putting a lower together easier, but it is possible to do with tools that most folks already have on hand (this is why it's sometimes called "gun plumbing"..only a small amount of mechanical skill required for the lower). Or, if you live within easy driving distance of Temple, TX, I'd be happy to let you use my tools and help you put it together. This was how I got started. Rather than convert the pistol lower into an SBR lower, I went ahead and engraved and registered (Form 1) a second lower for the SBR. I used the upper as a pistol until I got my stamp back on the Form 1, which happened quicker than the Form 4 for the AAC 762-SDN-6.

Edit: Just noticed your location as Houston in your profile...you probably don't want to make the trip up unless you're headed to Austin, Waco, or somewhere north and wanted to stop by for a visit).

Also noted your interest in an adjustable gas block. I have never found the need for one in any of the four 300BLK AR's that I've built and shot. All have worked just fine in all four modes (combinations of suppressed/unsuppressed, super/sub) without dinking with the gas.

[John A.]

Congratulations. That is great news.

Based on that, here is my recommendation.

Find a 300 blackout upper that you like. Then find a cheap stripped lower (Anderson are usually the least expensive at the moment and can be delivered for $50 or less to your local dealer). And then get a lower parts kit to complete the pistol lower with.

You can build a really decent economy build that will work fine and will allow you to spread out the cost over time for as long as you need.

Here is a nice 10.5" complete upper for about $375--and made in Texas
http://www.radicalfirearms.com/product- ... -10fgs.htm

stripped lower $40:
https://www.classicfirearms.com/anderson-ar-lower

lower parts kit and pistol buffer tube $80 *they're slow to ship, but figured it was worth mentioning
http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-pist ... black.html

And you're in for about $500

[Alex Wilson]

Why couldn't you purchase a 308 suppressor and use it on both guns? 308 and 300 blackout are the same bullet diameter, and will work on both just fine.

As for the blackout barrel length, 10 or 10.5 is more quiet than the shorter lengths because there is more room for the powder to achieve full burn when shooting subs prior to it entering the suppressor.

If the powder is still burning when it reaches the suppressor, there will be more "first round pop". If there is less or no powder burning still, it will be more quiet.

I have a short 8.5" barrel and I have had to switch to fast burning pistol powder to get it moderately quiet.

That is exactly my intention. The my issues is that I can't allocate the funds to purchase a surpressor and buy all the parts for the 300 build simultaneously. We have a baby girl due in May. So one will have so wait a bit, which is why I am torn.

Thanks for the info on barrel length! I didn't know why shorter barrels were louder. This will definitely push me to 10.5 barrel then.

Buy the suppressor and a stripped lower. Form 1 and Form 4 both, $400. You'll have 8 months to build the AR out before your tax stamps arrive.

I have the impression that you think you need some hi-tech/expensive stuff to build an AR. Your basic tools are a punch set, vice, AR vice block and an armorers wrench. Maybe $100 total. Hell I built my first one on our dinner table. Laid some cardboard boxes down so I didn't scratch our nice Biglots table. And unless you're living in one of those "tiny" houses you see on tv, you have the room.

I understand not everyone wants to or has the mechanical know how to build but you have said finances are a concern with a new baby coming. Building your own AR while waiting on the stamps to be approved is the most economical way to do it. At least build the lower. Can be done in a hour with minimal tools

[dellet]

As some others have said you can get a much better finished product for less money, doing the assembly yourself. It would probably be a dollar trade between buying the tools and having someone true the front of the upper receiver and install the barrel. It's just a choice.

If you have room to store one you have room to put one together.

If it was me and this is how I have done the SBR's is to buy the receiver that I want and file the paper work, then start watching the sales.

To me it's important to get the lower and suppressor you want. Most likely these will be a lifetime investment. There is no reason that buying one for anything 30 cal. will not work, unless you just want one for every rifle.

As far as top notch components, there are a lot of good barrels in the $200 range. I have mine done custom and they are $250 and they will headspace the chamber to your bolt if you send it to them(I think they charge $10). That would save you enough to buy a quality trigger.

The places you really want to spend the money is trigger and sights/optics.

It's impossible to tell someone else how to spend their money, and it's a lot easier to say after you have you're first one, but I would get the suppressor and lower along with the paper work first. That will be the big expense $1000-1500 easy. Two stamps, the lower, and your suppressor. All other expenses will be a couple hundred bucks at a time. If money will be tight in the future it might be hard to do.

Main thing is not get in a rush, and you can save a lot of money.