Need advice on QUALITY 300blk pistol build, within budget...

[HS_Invader]

I'm looking for advice on a QUALITY 300BLK pistol build I'm working on for 100-200 yds precision target shooting. I knoq quality parts can be very expensive and I'm trying to shave cost where it's not really necessary. I want to build it right the first time without replacing mediocre parts down the road. I should mention this is my first rifle build and I have little experience building rifles. I'm taking this on as a challenge and a new hobby so building it myself is the fun part. I've done tons of research on each part below to determine what I want, but I'm here to ask the experts what they think of my choices. Also, maybe this with empower another noob like myself by giving them a complete list of parts, prices, and URLs to start their build. Finally, I want to say thank you for all the posts here that have got me to this point! I'm a long time lurker of this forum and appreciate the help you guys provide.

Purpose: Target shooting. Suppressed (when I get my tax stamp). 100-200 yds. Short, light, tactical. Subsonic & supersonic.
Budget: No set budget, willing to cut cost where possible and maintain quality/accuracy. Currently sitting at: Pistol cost ~$1680, TOTAL Cost (including some ammo, tools) ~$2580.
Advice I need: Honest feedback! Incompatible parts parts? Something that would work better for my needs? Somewhere I could cut cost and maintain quality/accuracy?

UPPER
Barrel

• Rainier Arms UltraMatch 300AAC Blackout Pistol Barrel - 8.5" $309.75
• I'd prefer a 9" barrel or Noveske's 8.5 but theirs comes with a Gas Block installed and I've read its hard to remove.
• http://bit.ly/2c2m3AX

BCG

• Gemtech Suppressed 556 Bolt Carrier Group Black $188.00
• Perfect for my needs, subs and supers.
• http://bit.ly/2c66cn7

Bolt

• Need help with this. Can't find a decent bolt +parts for decent price. Gemtech's SBC doesn't come with them.

Rail

• Midwest Industries 7" G3 Free Float M-LOK Handguard, FDE $149.95
• http://bit.ly/2cBDWf1

Gas Block

• JP Adjustable Gas System JPGS-5B $77.95
• http://bit.ly/2bO8Drr

Muzzle Device

• Troy Claymore Muzzle Brake - 1/2x28 $59.99
• Really liked the recoil reduction/price ratio of this.
• http://bit.ly/2bOsmMi

Charging Handle

• DPMS - AR-15 CHARGING HANDLE $26.99
• http://bit.ly/1QqgJae

Gas Tube

• BROWNELLS - AR-15 GAS TUBES BLACK NITRIDE $8.99
• http://bit.ly/2c2lRBU

Upper Parts Kit

• AERO PRECISION - AR-15 UPPER PARTS KIT $17.99
• http://bit.ly/2c2l2Je

Receiver Set

• Franklin Armory Forged Matched Cerakoted Receiver Sets $299.99
• I'm in love with this set. If I could stomach the cost I'd get their billet receiever set.
• http://bit.ly/2bRporH

LOWER
Buffer Spring

• JP Silent Captured Spring - Gen 2 Heavy $168.10
• Really like this, I think I read I'll need the Gen 2 Heavy. Right?
• http://bit.ly/2bO9058

Buffer Tube, Brace

• KAK Shockwave Blade AR15 Pistol Stabilizing Brace w/ Buffer Tube Kit - Black $94.95
• http://bit.ly/2ctwizf

Trigger

• Timney Trigger AR-15 Drop-In Match Single Stage, Small Pin .154" $179.97
• Buddy has one and I love it.
• http://bit.ly/2c666vP

Grip

• Bravo Company GUNFIGHTER Pistol Grip Mod 3 Flat Dark Earth $17.95
• http://bit.ly/2bYMqZA

Lower Parts Kit

• DPMS AR15 Lower Receiver Parts Kit Without Trigger $24.28
• http://bit.ly/2bZSrDM

TOOLS
Included here because I'm new to gunsmithing. Already own a bench vice. Did I miss something?
Loctite

• Loctite 242 Threadlocker Blue $9.99

Armorer's Kit

• NcSTAR Essential Gun Smith Tool Kit $59.99
• http://bit.ly/2c9zL9E

Armorer's Kit

• Wheeler Delta Series AR-15 Armorer's Professional Kit 19 Piece 156555 $189.97
• http://bit.ly/2cekF1s

STUFF
Magazine

• Magpul PMAG M2 MOE Magazine AR-15 223 Remington 30-Round $12.30
• This will work right?
• http://bit.ly/2cmK7iv

Optics

• Vortex Optics StrikeFire 2 Red/Green Dot Sight with Cantilever Mount (SF-RG-501) $169.98
• http://amzn.to/2c9AuYv

Magnifier

• Vortex VMX-3T Magnifier with Flip Mount $158.62
• http://amzn.to/2bOtcZt

Fore Grip

• Magpul AFG-2 Angled Fore-Grip - Flat Dark Earth $27.99
• http://bit.ly/2bYL7tS

BUIS

• Ade Advanced Optics Front/Rear 45-Degree Rapid Transition BUIS Backup Iron Sight $24.99
• http://amzn.to/2c9zOCs

Ammo

• CORE Ordnance 300 Blackout Ammunition 250 Rounds, FMJ, 147 Grains $143.39
• Probably not the best quality, but just need some ammo to get the thing zeroed. Ozark Ordnance has cheaper ammo, but I'd rather not shoot re-loaded in a brand new gun.
• http://bit.ly/2chThxR

[plant.one]

one piece of advice - you've got what feels like about every gun parts dealer on the web in your parts selection.

you're going to kill yourself with shipping if you order like that.

make sure you calculate in what my boss used to call "landed cost" - price + shipping.

you may find that you can actually save a fair amount of $ by paying a couple bucks more from someplace you're buying other stuff and combining the shipping costs.

[Boolit_Head]

Look at CMC triggers or Patriot Ordinance Factory. I've got the CMC flat and while I like it I think I would GO with a POF flat. Either is a bit cheaper than the Timney and will do the same job.

Definitely try to consolidate and buy from fewer locations.

[HS_Invader]

one piece of advice - you've got what feels like about every gun parts dealer on the web in your parts selection.
you're going to kill yourself with shipping if you order like that.
make sure you calculate in what my boss used to call "landed cost" - price + shipping.
you may find that you can actually save a fair amount of $ by paying a couple bucks more from someplace you're buying other stuff and combining the shipping costs.

Very true, and I'll already started to account for that. I'm sort of an excel geek so I have a very in-depth spreadsheet of every part I've even looked at buying. My final "Build" sheet has shipping cost, discounts, etc calculated into the price. For example, the CTD parts are all coming from different warehouses and I've already started updating the cost to account for shipping costs vs. looking into another place to buy from that may be more expensive buy less/free shipping. Seriously, why do CTD items cost more or less from different warehouses? $30 more for an armorers kit from a different warehouse!?

Shout out to the dealers with Military/LEO discounts, ya'll rock!

[Sithlord]

It's your build... Having said that, given your requirements of 'PRECISION' @ 100-200 yards.....

A red/green dot, even with magnifier isn't going to give you 'PRECISION'. The one you selected is 4 MOA - minute of angle. That means that at 100 yards, it covers a 4" circle. At 200 yards, that's an 8" circle.

A magnifier won't change that....

4" isn't precision; most folks are looking for sub MOA (less than 1" at 100 yards). Your optics ain't going to allow that.

A few other considerations...

1) I'd recommend a NiB complete BCG. One rated for full auto is sufficient. You don't need a Gemtech suppressed BCG...
2) There is no need for an adjustable gas block (IMHO) unless you are hunting and want a single-shot AR, or as quiet suppressed rifle as you can get in a AR platform. Neither of which were your stated goals.
3) Muzzle device - why? If you are going to suppress, the MD doesn't really matter. MD help achieve rapid follow up shots by decreasing muzzle rise. Since rapid follow up shots are not your stated goal, and you want to shoot suppressed, I'd not worry about this.
4) I'm all for pistol ARs. Really. I don't like them personally; to each their own. Assuming your state laws allow possession of a short barrel rifle, for only $100 more than the KAK shockwave blade, you can get an SBR. Of course, then you'd need a butt stock, so... Will be (IMHO) more precise offhand than an AR pistol at 100 yards (no shouldering allowed!)
5) I have the Gen 1 JP SCS. I left the standard spring in there, and I run all four ways with BHO...
6) I'm sure that the Wheeler Delta Series professional kit is great; I got their regular kit for about $69 on sale, and it works great, with several complete builds to it's name.
7) Sounds like you're going for tacticool with 45 degree BUIS. Are you an operator?
8 ) I used to think that the standard charging handle was sufficient. Then I got a BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 (medium handle), ambidextrous charging handle. Wow, night and day, easy pull in most scenarios.
9) Rainier Arms makes good stuff. There are plenty of other manufacturers out there who make quality barrels, and achieve sub-MOA accuracy, for a lot less. Also, you're pairing with with 147 FMJ (assuming pulled milsurp 308). Not exactly the most accurate, esp. for your stated goal of precision, and really seeing what your barrel can do.

Of course, you didn't indicate what suppressor (relates to MD if quick detach).

Lastly, since this is your first build, while it may be more expensive in the long run, you may also be trying to overachieve 'perfection', and you may fall short, resulting in disappointment. Your parts are quality and will run very well. It's up to the person behind the trigger, in most cases, though, as the firearm is USUALLY more accurate than the shooter is. Some of the parts you selected because you have tried them, and you like them. That's GOOD. In the AR assembly game, it's often better to shoot and see what you feel you need (eg, offset BUIS).

Best of luck!

[KTMRacer]

Just a few points.
Your saying you want to target shoot 100-200 yards. You won't see the benefits of your ultra match barrel with that optic. You will need magnification to really make it sing. Also you didn't say if you reload or not. I'm assuming no based on the ammo budget.
The Blackout is the perfect round for reloading. It's not difficult and there is a ton of good info out on it both on here and published. Again, to take advantage of the set up you are purchasing, you need to feed it the best ammo you can, and best is what you make yourself.

I'm not knocking anything you have selected because it seems to be all top shelf parts. For me, it's just hard to fathom because everything I do is based on a budget. For instance, I have a 8.25" SBR suppressed with all the paperwork and a RARR complete with optic for right at your budget number.
If you find a way to trim some fat you can move money around for a single stage reloading set up or parts to start another build.
Fair warning, my first AR was store bought. My next was a Blackout that I built. Since my last pistol / SBR Blackout I've built 3 more and none of the 3 are blackouts. You are about to start a gateway drug. Proceed with caution.

[HS_Invader]

Look at CMC triggers or Patriot Ordinance Factory. I've got the CMC flat and while I like it I think I would GO with a POF flat. Either is a bit cheaper than the Timney and will do the same job.

Thank you, I think I'm going to go with this over the Timney. I even found the one I want at my local dealer for $154 saving me $30+ in cost and shipping.

A red/green dot, even with magnifier isn't going to give you 'PRECISION'. The one you selected is 4 MOA - minute of angle. That means that at 100 yards, it covers a 4" circle. At 200 yards, that's an 8" circle.
A magnifier won't change that....
4" isn't precision; most folks are looking for sub MOA (less than 1" at 100 yards). Your optics ain't going to allow that.
This is a good point. I'll start researching optics a little more. I chose these two because they're what my friend runs on his 16" 300BLK and they're on sale on Amazon. Any advice on other options?

1) I'd recommend a NiB complete BCG. One rated for full auto is sufficient. You don't need a Gemtech suppressed BCG...
My local dealer recommended this based upon my needs. This is likely somewhere I can cut cost and maintain my needs so I'll look into this. I should have mentioned that I plan to eventually shoot suppressed and a quiet is another goal. I can't afford a suppressor just yet and ATF turnaround times are crap anyways so I just want it to be as quiet as possible for when that day comes.
2) There is no need for an adjustable gas block (IMHO) unless you are hunting and want a single-shot AR, or as quiet suppressed rifle as you can get in a AR platform. Neither of which were your stated goals.
If I do want a "quite suppressed rifle", wouldn't I need one of these? If not than I might switch back to the Noveske 8.5" barrel I've been eyeing that comes with a gas block.
3) Muzzle device - why? If you are going to suppress, the MD doesn't really matter. MD help achieve rapid follow up shots by decreasing muzzle rise. Since rapid follow up shots are not your stated goal, and you want to shoot suppressed, I'd not worry about this.
Figured until I get that can I'd spend a little extra for recoil reduction. Don't plan on doing to much rapid fire but figured it would be nice to have a MD for before and after I get the suppressor.
4) I'm all for pistol ARs. Really. I don't like them personally; to each their own. Assuming your state laws allow possession of a short barrel rifle, for only $100 more than the KAK shockwave blade, you can get an SBR. Of course, then you'd need a butt stock, so... Will be (IMHO) more precise offhand than an AR pistol at 100 yards (no shouldering allowed!)
You're saying build an SBR paying the $200 tax stamp and save a little on the tube/stock... hmm. This is so tempting and I've really been on the fence about building a SBR vs. pistol. My main reasoning for not going SBR was the hassle of paperwork and waiting. I'm also in the military and move around ALOT, what happens if they send me to some hippie state that won't allow me to bring it...?
5) I have the Gen 1 JP SCS. I left the standard spring in there, and I run all four ways with BHO...
6) I'm sure that the Wheeler Delta Series professional kit is great; I got their regular kit for about $69 on sale, and it works great, with several complete builds to it's name.
7) Sounds like you're going for tacticool with 45 degree BUIS. Are you an operator?
Damn, caught me. Not an operator, but it's always nice to have a backup right? right...?
8 ) I used to think that the standard charging handle was sufficient. Then I got a BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 (medium handle), ambidextrous charging handle. Wow, night and day, easy pull in most scenarios.
9) Rainier Arms makes good stuff. There are plenty of other manufacturers out there who make quality barrels, and achieve sub-MOA accuracy, for a lot less. Also, you're pairing with with 147 FMJ (assuming pulled milsurp 308). Not exactly the most accurate, esp. for your stated goal of precision, and really seeing what your barrel can do.
I'll end up buying much better rounds to fine tune the sighting once I get this thing put together and sighted in a little.
Of course, you didn't indicate what suppressor (relates to MD if quick detach).
Lastly, since this is your first build, while it may be more expensive in the long run, you may also be trying to overachieve 'perfection', and you may fall short, resulting in disappointment. Your parts are quality and will run very well. It's up to the person behind the trigger, in most cases, though, as the firearm is USUALLY more accurate than the shooter is. Some of the parts you selected because you have tried them, and you like them. That's GOOD. In the AR assembly game, it's often better to shoot and see what you feel you need (eg, offset BUIS).
Best of luck!
Thank you for all of the advice. This is exactly what I'm looking for!

[HS_Invader]

Just a few points.
Your saying you want to target shoot 100-200 yards. You won't see the benefits of your ultra match barrel with that optic. You will need magnification to really make it sing. Also you didn't say if you reload or not. I'm assuming no based on the ammo budget.
The Blackout is the perfect round for reloading. It's not difficult and there is a ton of good info out on it both on here and published. Again, to take advantage of the set up you are purchasing, you need to feed it the best ammo you can, and best is what you make yourself. Yes, reloading is the next adventure. If I can properly put together this lego set, I'll start start learning to reload right away to cut cost on the inevitably large number of rounds that will go through this baby.

I'm not knocking anything you have selected because it seems to be all top shelf parts. For me, it's just hard to fathom because everything I do is based on a budget. For instance, I have a 8.25" SBR suppressed with all the paperwork and a RARR complete with optic for right at your budget number.
If you find a way to trim some fat you can move money around for a single stage reloading set up or parts to start another build. This is precisely the purpose of this post and I've already received some good advice from ya'll to trim that fat.
Fair warning, my first AR was store bought. My next was a Blackout that I built. Since my last pistol / SBR Blackout I've built 3 more and none of the 3 are blackouts. You are about to start a gateway drug. Proceed with caution.
My wife is very understanding but I can see the hesitation on her face every time I bring up the topic.
Thanks for the advice!

[Sithlord]

Take opinions for what they cost you...

Your local dealer is trying to sell you a BCG without bolt (so it's really just a bolt carrier). The Gemtech bolt carrier, in reviews, reduces the felt recoil and 'gas face' when shooting suppressed. Except that the cartridge used in the test was a .223/5.56, not a 300 BLK. When I shoot my 5.56 suppressed, I get gas face, so I made a gasket for my charging handle to virtually eliminate it. With the 300 BLK, I get NO gas in the face when shooting suppressed, with both supers and subs, using an unmodified charging handle. Shooting suppressed is a bit dirtier; getting a NiB BCG is going to save you time (cleaning) and $$$ (over the Gemtech).

Of course, if you want your lower to readily shoot 5.56, then the Gemtech may be worth it. To me, a $9 homemade gasket was cheaper, although now the 5.56 charging handle looks 'funny'... Oh well...

As far as an adjustable gas block and quiet suppressed..... Science and Physics... The BCG slamming closed is about 120dB, and represents the majority of what you hear when shooting 300 BLK subsonic, suppressed. By adjusting the gas to 0, you end up with a bolt gun, and it becomes a bit quieter. It's been compared to an air rifle.... So, yeah, an adjustable gas block will be quieter, and then you get to cycle by hand. Your choice... To me, 120dB is nothing (rock concert for a brief impulse) ; a supersonic crack is 140dB, or 4x as loud!

As far as a muzzle device... Assuming you eventually want a quick-detach can, you'll need a specific muzzle device. If you want a direct thread, well, then you won't have ANY muzzle device. So, your choices are:
a) Get the MD you selected. If/when you shoot suppressed, spend money on a different MD (unless direct thread)
b) Go with either no MD or whatever the barrel ships with (eg, birdcage flash hider). (save $$$)
c) Plan ahead on what suppressor you want, and get a MD compatible with it...

As far as SBR and the military - yeah, that's a bitch. You are required to notify ATF of a 'permanent' move, and obviously, unfriendly states may forbid it. In those cases, you need to weigh the offset of SBR vs Pistol (I had a buddy who made a pistol 300 BLK, didn't care for it. Shot my SBR, and admitted it was 10x better just because of the butt stock). One thing to consider with the SBR is to get a trust; if you have family members (parents, siblings) whose address is stable, they can be on the trust, and you can store it there. Of course, even without a trust, they can 'temporarily' store the SBR, however, they aren't supposed to be able to access it (unless they are on the trust). Note, the hassle of the paperwork is a bitch, to be sure, especially now that 41F went into affect. I recently sent in the paperwork for a new suppressor, and it took over an hour, not including fingerprinting and photographs... Followed by a 6 month wait. I don't expect the wait times to reduce substantially; in otherwords, waiting a year because the wait times are 6 months means you are now waiting 18 months, not 6 (although there are indications of the number of forms being sent after July 13 is dramatically reduced, that may be a temporary thing given that there was a flood of stamps submitted prior to July 13th).

As an aside, I thought, as military, you could technically 'register' to live in any state. The tax stamp would have that location... You'd have to notify the ATF of using the SBR in a different state (whereever you were stationed). Still would be impossible to take it to a 'progressive' state... Or just get a trust, add some relatives (or even military buddies).

Cheers!

[HS_Invader]

Take opinions for what they cost you...
Your local dealer is trying to sell you a BCG without bolt (so it's really just a bolt carrier). The Gemtech bolt carrier, in reviews, reduces the felt recoil and 'gas face' when shooting suppressed. Except that the cartridge used in the test was a .223/5.56, not a 300 BLK. When I shoot my 5.56 suppressed, I get gas face, so I made a gasket for my charging handle to virtually eliminate it. With the 300 BLK, I get NO gas in the face when shooting suppressed, with both supers and subs, using an unmodified charging handle. Shooting suppressed is a bit dirtier; getting a NiB BCG is going to save you time (cleaning) and $$$ (over the Gemtech).
I'm sold, switching to NiB.
Of course, if you want your lower to readily shoot 5.56, then the Gemtech may be worth it. To me, a $9 homemade gasket was cheaper, although now the 5.56 charging handle looks 'funny'... Oh well...
I'm having trouble imagining what this "gasket" would look like. Any chance you could post a pic?

As far as an adjustable gas block and quiet suppressed..... Science and Physics... The BCG slamming closed is about 120dB, and represents the majority of what you hear when shooting 300 BLK subsonic, suppressed. By adjusting the gas to 0, you end up with a bolt gun, and it becomes a bit quieter. It's been compared to an air rifle.... So, yeah, an adjustable gas block will be quieter, and then you get to cycle by hand. Your choice... To me, 120dB is nothing (rock concert for a brief impulse) ; a supersonic crack is 140dB, or 4x as loud!
Ok, I think that is exactly what I needed to hear to change my mind. I'm going to spring for the Noveske 8.5" barrel and use their gas block.
As far as a muzzle device... Assuming you eventually want a quick-detach can, you'll need a specific muzzle device. If you want a direct thread, well, then you won't have ANY muzzle device. So, your choices are:
a) Get the MD you selected. If/when you shoot suppressed, spend money on a different MD (unless direct thread)
b) Go with either no MD or whatever the barrel ships with (eg, birdcage flash hider). (save $$$)
c) Plan ahead on what suppressor you want, and get a MD compatible with it...
I think I'm go with Plan B and make up my mind once the barrel comes in. I'm not getting a suppressor any time soon so no need to decide on a MD just yet.
As far as SBR and the military - yeah, that's a bitch. Ain't it! You are required to notify ATF of a 'permanent' move, and obviously, unfriendly states may forbid it. In those cases, you need to weigh the offset of SBR vs Pistol (I had a buddy who made a pistol 300 BLK, didn't care for it. Shot my SBR, and admitted it was 10x better just because of the butt stock). One thing to consider with the SBR is to get a trust; if you have family members (parents, siblings) whose address is stable, they can be on the trust, and you can store it there. So I do have family that lives in WA that could hold it for me if I move. I currently live in VA. If I was to send off now to get an SBR what is the process for getting it on a trust to have my family in WA on it? How much extra are we talking to get it on a trust? Of course, even without a trust, they can 'temporarily' store the SBR, however, they aren't supposed to be able to access it (unless they are on the trust). Note, the hassle of the paperwork is a bitch, to be sure, especially now that 41F went into affect. OMG, I just looked up the process of making a Trust since 41F. I don't want to put my family through that bullshit just so I can own a SBR. I might have to just stick with a pistol since I can't chance being sent somewhere I can't have an SBR and have nobody to give it to for safekeeping. I recently sent in the paperwork for a new suppressor, and it took over an hour, not including fingerprinting and photographs... Followed by a 6 month wait. I don't expect the wait times to reduce substantially; in otherwords, waiting a year because the wait times are 6 months means you are now waiting 18 months, not 6 (although there are indications of the number of forms being sent after July 13 is dramatically reduced, that may be a temporary thing given that there was a flood of stamps submitted prior to July 13th).

As an aside, I thought, as military, you could technically 'register' to live in any state. The tax stamp would have that location... You'd have to notify the ATF of using the SBR in a different state (whereever you were stationed). Still would be impossible to take it to a 'progressive' state... Or just get a trust, add some relatives (or even military buddies).

Cheers!
Thanks for the help!