Lever Action Rossi 92 .357/.38 Suppressed

[dellet]

It's not like it was a precision rifle to start with, but still in that case you hate to lose any more than you have to.

It's a toy for turning money into giggles.

I know, but it's still nice to hit what your shooting at.

I have a couple that have a 25 caliber case and a 26 caliber muzzle that I'm happy to just be able to shoot.

[Netpackrat]

It's not like it was a precision rifle to start with, but still in that case you hate to lose any more than you have to.

It's a toy for turning money into giggles.

I know, but it's still nice to hit what your shooting at.

I haven't found my rifle to be the source of that problem yet.

[Netpackrat]

.578-28 threads on .45 Colt Ranch hand.



Again, as far as I know, all R92s have the same outer barrel contour. Not sure what the OP's barrel length is, but unless he's got a Ranch Hand, he would have even less thickness to work with further out. IIRC, the OD was like .630" so you wouldn't have much of a shoulder, and not really any leeway for the threads if the contour wasn't already exactly concentric to the bore. One possible avenue if starting with the rifle length unit, especially if cutting it back to SBR length, might be to high temp silver solder a ring around the barrel, that could then be faced to become the thread shoulder. The gunsmith who threaded the Rossi for me once mentioned having done that in the past to make up for insufficient thickness.

The magazine tube also had to be shortened to allow the suppressor to clear, so the screw for the end cap ended up under the barrel band. It's thus a bit of a pain to remove the magazine spring and follower.

[Netpackrat]

Also, no thread on suppressed lever guns is complete without this Hickok45 video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXc0rm6dzVs

[PNW17]

Aren't you worried about the muzzle or at least the crown opening up with so little barrel left to support the grooves?

Almost all 9mm's are threaded 1/2-28 and .357 is basically the same diameter bullet. Pressure is low at the end of the barrel anyways. There would not have been a large enough shoulder if threading for 5/8-24

Generally speaking if you take metal off the outside of a hole, the hole expands.

Most pistol barrels don't have a shoulder, so threading one really does not change the crown much. I would be worried about a loss of accuracy. Not so much a safety issue.

It's not like it was a precision rifle to start with, but still in that case you hate to lose any more than you have to.

The "hole" or bore is not being expanded or touched nor is the crown within about .060 of the grooves. Also just measured my gemtech 9mm G19 barrel and it does have a .030 shoulder which it indexes to the can with.

[PNW17]

.578-28 threads on .45 Colt Ranch hand.



Again, as far as I know, all R92s have the same outer barrel contour. Not sure what the OP's barrel length is, but unless he's got a Ranch Hand, he would have even less thickness to work with further out. IIRC, the OD was like .630" so you wouldn't have much of a shoulder, and not really any leeway for the threads if the contour wasn't already exactly concentric to the bore. One possible avenue if starting with the rifle length unit, especially if cutting it back to SBR length, might be to high temp silver solder a ring around the barrel, that could then be faced to become the thread shoulder. The gunsmith who threaded the Rossi for me once mentioned having done that in the past to make up for insufficient thickness.

The magazine tube also had to be shortened to allow the suppressor to clear, so the screw for the end cap ended up under the barrel band. It's thus a bit of a pain to remove the magazine spring and follower.

It is a 16" Bbl, OD was .630, not enough of a shoulder left if doing 5/8-24

[dellet]

Almost all 9mm's are threaded 1/2-28 and .357 is basically the same diameter bullet. Pressure is low at the end of the barrel anyways. There would not have been a large enough shoulder if threading for 5/8-24

Generally speaking if you take metal off the outside of a hole, the hole expands.

Most pistol barrels don't have a shoulder, so threading one really does not change the crown much. I would be worried about a loss of accuracy. Not so much a safety issue.

It's not like it was a precision rifle to start with, but still in that case you hate to lose any more than you have to.

The "hole" or bore is not being expanded or touched nor is the crown within about .060 of the grooves. Also just measured my gemtech 9mm G19 barrel and it does have a .030 shoulder which it indexes to the can with.

All steel contains an internal stress. When you change the shape through machining, the stress moves the new shape.

Most barrels are stress relieved to some point, but basically the bore will be the exact opposite as the contour of the barrel. A tapered barrel will have slightly increasing bore towards the muzzle.

The more external metal you remove, the more the internal shape will distort. So the .030" removed to create the shoulder on your pistol barrel, will make much less change than the change made to the rifle barrel.

The muzzle on that barrel opened up, and the crown was distorted. How much will depend on how well the barrel was stress relieved in the beginning and in the heating and cooling since. The crown probably should have been touched up after the threading

For what you're doing it may not matter much, that does not mean it did not happen.

[Netpackrat]

It is a 16" Bbl, OD was .630, not enough of a shoulder left if doing 5/8-24

That's good to know. So, either the standard R92 contour is basically straight from around the 12" mark out to the muzzle, or what I read about the contours being the same other than length might have been in error. The discussion was mostly concerning the contour closer to the receiver where the scope mount would go. One of the disadvantages of starting with a Ranch Hand, is they are not drilled and tapped for the factory scope mount. My gunsmith friend was hesitant to drill and tap mine due to barrel thickness concerns. As he put it, he didn't think I wanted my barrel ported, especially so far back.... Another thing that would have been no problem if I'd gone with .38/.357 instead of .45.

[DutchV]

...
From what I have read, the chamber gets gummed up if you shoot a lot of .38's through a.357 chamber.
...

Completely true. I just bought a slightly used Puma in .357, and now have the front half of a .357 case stuck in it. I put a few .38's through it with no issue, but the first .357 was the last round I shot.

Guess I should've cleaned it first. I ordered a bar of Cerrosafe, so it should be back in service soon.

Can you tell us who did the threading and magazine work? That's next on the list for mine. After that I may have it parkerized.

[Netpackrat]

Can you tell us who did the threading and magazine work? That's next on the list for mine. After that I may have it parkerized.

Mine was done by a local gunsmith in Palmer, AK, but after he finished he said no more big bore lever guns. I even removed the barrel for him and reinstalled it when he was done. But, he's done a lot of barrel work for me and doesn't charge a lot, so I can't complain too much.