220gr Leatherheads safe for use with RIFLE silencer?

[Max713]

Guys, I'm sure this has been answered many times in different ways...
I ordered 500ct of Leatherhead 220gr the other day, planning to use it for a cheap and viable alternative for a good sub load in my RARR.

Since making the order, I've spent a lot of time looking into load info, reading "testimonials", sifting through threads (many here), etc.

But one thing remains in my brain! Is it truly safe, for my silencer, to shoot leatherheads? I have an Omega that moves between a handful of rifles, including the RARR in question.
Now I have a Griffin Revolution 9 in jail, to be back in 9 months or so... but that will be my dedicated sub-gun can on a trilug mount. I don't really want to switch back and fourth, I want to just run my rifle can on my rifles, I.E. my Omega.

So the question remains, how safe is it for my Omega to run Leatherheads through it?
I don't want to be constantly worried with filling my can up with lead, or having to send it back to silencerco periodically.

I'd like to get a collective thought here, hoping to see some experienced feedback, hoping Mr. Leatherhead (Idaho something? His username escapes me at the moment...) will chime in as well.

Thanks guys!

[John A.]

Shouldn't be an issue as long as you keep them subsonic.

If you're really worried about it, weigh it on a digital postal scale before and after shooting a while. If it starts gaining weight, it's coming from somewhere.

[strobro32]

Some here have had good luck and some have not. My personal experience is Leatherhead Bullets is a good company and stands behind what they sell. Their bullets function and shoot as well as any cast bullet.

Success with not adding lead to your suppressor is dependent on loading practices and barrel quality.

[hardcase]

I have shot between 2,500 3,000 300 BO with subs in my Mystic with no signs of leading using 220 Leatherheads. As mentioned, loading practices and barrel quality could make a difference.

Just as a sidebar, all brands of coated bullets are different. I think some poorly coated ones give the lot a bad reputation.

[anotherkelley]

This can has well over 5k rounds through it... 1500-2000 of those are Leatherhead's coated 30cals. I give it a little shot of Kroil after a session of shooting.

[Max713]

This can has well over 5k rounds through it... 1500-2000 of those are Leatherhead's coated 30cals. I give it a little shot of Kroil after a session of shooting.

Very reassuring.

Keep the thoughts coming guys.

[Max713]

Some here have had good luck and some have not. My personal experience is Leatherhead Bullets is a good company and stands behind what they sell. Their bullets function and shoot as well as any cast bullet.

Success with not adding lead to your suppressor is dependent on loading practices and barrel quality.

Obviously I haven't had a chance to mess around with the loading process yet, but what I am most concerned about is putting the crimp on the brass, after seating the bullet in the expanded case mouth. My understanding is the greatest cause of leading, is too aggressive of a crimp.

I haven't found much info on this thought though, what about no crimp? Leaving the case mouth slightly expanded? I could see it being an issue for proper cycling in a semi-auto, but I will be using these in a bolt gun exclusively. Thoughts on that?

[plant.one]

you have to remove the bell with a crimp die or its likely your rounds wont chamber. just kiss them enough that you dont damage the coating.

the neck diameter of the chamber wont allow much (if any) of a flare and still let you seat the bullet. You have to stay below .334 or you'll likely have issues

This is why picking the right headstamp brass is important because of the thickness of the neck can cause chambering issues with many guns (see the huge 8 page sticky on the subject of neck wall thickness in brass viewtopic.php?f=141&t=88599 )

here's the saami spec drawing for 300 blk
http://www.saami.org/pubresources/cc_dr ... ackout.pdf


make a test dummy (no primer/powder) and seat a bullet, then crimp it to remove the bell and pull the bullet.

if the coating holds & the belling was removed then you've got success


if the coating gets chewed off, back off on your crimp die a bit and repeat.

hth

[golfindia]

Be very gentle with a Lee FCD die on cast/coated bullets also. Squishing them too much can make them shoot like crap and/or keyhole.

[Max713]

you have to remove the bell with a crimp die or its likely your rounds wont chamber. just kiss them enough that you dont damage the coating.

the neck diameter of the chamber wont allow much (if any) of a flare and still let you seat the bullet. You have to stay below .334 or you'll likely have issues

This is why picking the right headstamp brass is important because of the thickness of the neck can cause chambering issues with many guns (see the huge 8 page sticky on the subject of neck wall thickness in brass viewtopic.php?f=141&t=88599 )

here's the saami spec drawing for 300 blk
http://www.saami.org/pubresources/cc_dr ... ackout.pdf


make a test dummy (no primer/powder) and seat a bullet, then crimp it to remove the bell and pull the bullet.

if the coating holds & the belling was removed then you've got success


if the coating gets chewed off, back off on your crimp die a bit and repeat.

hth

Makes sense.
I've selected all my brass carefully and sorted head stamps, in fact I'm on the tail end of processing 3,200 pieces right now

Do you have a favorite expanding/crimp die set?
I have RCBS equipment, haven't looked much into dies yet. Like I said I'm early into this cast pill endeavor.