Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

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AndyT
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by AndyT »

Ok so first I take my brass that's been once fired from 5.56 and look at it to make sure that it's not damaged. Next step is the variable, sometimes I'll clean it then deprime it before doing anything else and sometimes I'll leave it dirty. Next I get a usps priority mail box and a large ziplock bag or three. I throw all that brass in the ziplock, put on addresses and postage, and then mail it to someone else to process because I'm lazy and the process sucks with my equipment. I found out after it took me an hour to do 50 cases that it wasn't worth my time when there's people processing for fairly cheap.

Not really on topic but yeah.
taymag
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by taymag »

AndyT wrote:Ok so first I take my brass that's been once fired from 5.56 and look at it to make sure that it's not damaged. Next step is the variable, sometimes I'll clean it then deprime it before doing anything else and sometimes I'll leave it dirty. Next I get a usps priority mail box and a large ziplock bag or three. I throw all that brass in the ziplock, put on addresses and postage, and then mail it to someone else to process because I'm lazy and the process sucks with my equipment. I found out after it took me an hour to do 50 cases that it wasn't worth my time when there's people processing for fairly cheap.

Not really on topic but yeah.
Anything to do with the post office seems like more work than just doing it. Plus waiting is such a pain, NO ONE has the lead/productions time that they say they do :evil:
ThePinger
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by ThePinger »

taymag wrote:Ive been shooting 500 already cut/sized blackout brass for a few cycles now that I bought a while back and I have about 1000 5.56 cases I want to convert. Seems like no one has the same info...

I planned on cleaning, using the cut jig (from 300blk talk) with a HF saw, resizing then trimming (tri-way).

What all needs to be done to the primer pockets? And what am I missing?
taymag wrote:Ive been shooting 500 already cut/sized blackout brass for a few cycles now that I bought a while back and I have about 1000 5.56 cases I want to convert. Seems like no one has the same info...

I planned on cleaning, using the cut jig (from 300blk talk) with a HF saw, resizing then trimming (tri-way).

What all needs to be done to the primer pockets? And what am I missing?
While I have been accused of over-thinking my process, this is my plan (after extensive reading on these and other boards). Also, some of my lessons learned from the case prep that I have already done:

I use the Lyman case prep center. It is how I take care of all of the primer pocket issues. It does get tiring after a couple hundred cases, but you should only have to do the hard stuff (de-crimp and pocket reaming) once. It is on sale a couple of times a year for $115. I prefer this over the Dillon 600 because it costs $100 and ONLY swages... This pocket reams, decrimps, cleans the pocket hole, chamfers, and deburrs. From what I have read, I prefer decrimping over swaging (there is a difference).
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/211733 ... r-115-volt

For trimming I use the Crow World's Finest Trimmer in a hand drill. It can be very tricky getting the cutting blade set to the exact depth that you want (if the factory setting isn't what you want), but once you do it is awesome. I wear golf gloves while using the trimmer as it REALLY cuts down on any cases spinning in your fingers. Little Crow Gunworks also gives a police and military discount and will set the die for you if you mail them a case that is already cut to the length that you want.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/251243 ... c-blackout

I am choosing to anneal (most people don't bother with this). I am a completionist and will do whatever I can to make things the best and/or last the longest that I possibly can. You can build your own annealing rig cheaply instead of buying a $350 setup. My lesson learned from this, is use MAP gas instead of propane bottles. It can be bought at most hardware stores and it heats up the brass faster than propane. That is the main thing about annealing... you want to heat the neck fast to soften the brass there, but keep the base as hard as possible to keep it from rupturing. Some people drop their brass in a water bucket. I have read mixed reviews of this. Most people who say not to rapid cool in water just call it stupid while people who do speak to the metallurgical properties of brass versus other metals that shrink in length or harden in water (drama versus wisdom). You can build a cheap annealer like this guy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uPlbB6LHKE
It works, but it still seems to heat a bit uneven compared to setups that roll the brass (but it saves $$$). I may just take my time and chuck my brass in a drill. Also... don't bother with Tempilac. It is more or less a paint that melts at certain temperatures. Watch a few videos and try a few times yourself and you will learn quickly how long it takes to get a soft, pink glow on the neck.

***LESSON LEARNED - Do not use the cheap Lee Pacesetter dies for your brass conversion (unless you are using it for a general forming and will be "double-stamping" using a different die later). They do not form brass to minimum SAAMI specs. I have yet to have a single piece of brass gauge properly using those dies.

I also use the Harbor Freight chop saw and a cutting jig. Overall doing it this way is a lot slower than just getting a Dillon trimmer on your press, but all of this work only has to be done once per case

Stage 1: Early Brass Prep
1. Chop .223 brass to length
2. Chamfer/Deburr (to keep from scratching sizing die and/or jamming burrs causing a stuck case)
3. Anneal
4. Lube

Stage 2: Forming (on short trim die toolhead)
1. Position 2 - Lee Universal Depriming/Decapping Die
2. Position 4 – Dillon 300AAC Blackout Trim Die

Stage 3: Late Brass Prep
1. Trim to 1.350 w/ World’s Finest Trimmer
2. Decrimp/Swage/Pocket Clean (if needed)
3. Tumble polish/clean lube off
4. Deburr/clear flash hole (if needed)
5. Turn neck to .011 (if needed)

Stage 4: Loading (by position)
1. Lyman M Die (sizes neck since Dillon trim die doesn’t)
2. Charge (AK funnel) & prime
3. Powder Check
4. Forster Ultra Micrometer Seater Die
5. Lee Factory Crimp Die (Because I already have one
300 AAC Blackout SBR
- PWS 9" Upper
- Spikes Tactical Jack Lower
- TAC-CON 3MR Trigger
- JP Enterprises Silent Spring Buffer
- SD Tactical Arms 8" Form 1 Suppressor
taymag
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by taymag »

ThePinger wrote:
taymag wrote:Ive been shooting 500 already cut/sized blackout brass for a few cycles now that I bought a while back and I have about 1000 5.56 cases I want to convert. Seems like no one has the same info...

I planned on cleaning, using the cut jig (from 300blk talk) with a HF saw, resizing then trimming (tri-way).

What all needs to be done to the primer pockets? And what am I missing?
taymag wrote:Ive been shooting 500 already cut/sized blackout brass for a few cycles now that I bought a while back and I have about 1000 5.56 cases I want to convert. Seems like no one has the same info...

I planned on cleaning, using the cut jig (from 300blk talk) with a HF saw, resizing then trimming (tri-way).

What all needs to be done to the primer pockets? And what am I missing?
While I have been accused of over-thinking my process, this is my plan (after extensive reading on these and other boards). Also, some of my lessons learned from the case prep that I have already done:

I use the Lyman case prep center. It is how I take care of all of the primer pocket issues. It does get tiring after a couple hundred cases, but you should only have to do the hard stuff (de-crimp and pocket reaming) once. It is on sale a couple of times a year for $115. I prefer this over the Dillon 600 because it costs $100 and ONLY swages... This pocket reams, decrimps, cleans the pocket hole, chamfers, and deburrs. From what I have read, I prefer decrimping over swaging (there is a difference).
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/211733 ... r-115-volt

For trimming I use the Crow World's Finest Trimmer in a hand drill. It can be very tricky getting the cutting blade set to the exact depth that you want (if the factory setting isn't what you want), but once you do it is awesome. I wear golf gloves while using the trimmer as it REALLY cuts down on any cases spinning in your fingers. Little Crow Gunworks also gives a police and military discount and will set the die for you if you mail them a case that is already cut to the length that you want.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/251243 ... c-blackout

I am choosing to anneal (most people don't bother with this). I am a completionist and will do whatever I can to make things the best and/or last the longest that I possibly can. You can build your own annealing rig cheaply instead of buying a $350 setup. My lesson learned from this, is use MAP gas instead of propane bottles. It can be bought at most hardware stores and it heats up the brass faster than propane. That is the main thing about annealing... you want to heat the neck fast to soften the brass there, but keep the base as hard as possible to keep it from rupturing. Some people drop their brass in a water bucket. I have read mixed reviews of this. Most people who say not to rapid cool in water just call it stupid while people who do speak to the metallurgical properties of brass versus other metals that shrink in length or harden in water (drama versus wisdom). You can build a cheap annealer like this guy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uPlbB6LHKE
It works, but it still seems to heat a bit uneven compared to setups that roll the brass (but it saves $$$). I may just take my time and chuck my brass in a drill. Also... don't bother with Tempilac. It is more or less a paint that melts at certain temperatures. Watch a few videos and try a few times yourself and you will learn quickly how long it takes to get a soft, pink glow on the neck.

***LESSON LEARNED - Do not use the cheap Lee Pacesetter dies for your brass conversion (unless you are using it for a general forming and will be "double-stamping" using a different die later). They do not form brass to minimum SAAMI specs. I have yet to have a single piece of brass gauge properly using those dies.

I also use the Harbor Freight chop saw and a cutting jig. Overall doing it this way is a lot slower than just getting a Dillon trimmer on your press, but all of this work only has to be done once per case

Stage 1: Early Brass Prep
1. Chop .223 brass to length
2. Chamfer/Deburr (to keep from scratching sizing die and/or jamming burrs causing a stuck case)
3. Anneal
4. Lube

Stage 2: Forming (on short trim die toolhead)
1. Position 2 - Lee Universal Depriming/Decapping Die
2. Position 4 – Dillon 300AAC Blackout Trim Die

Stage 3: Late Brass Prep
1. Trim to 1.350 w/ World’s Finest Trimmer
2. Decrimp/Swage/Pocket Clean (if needed)
3. Tumble polish/clean lube off
4. Deburr/clear flash hole (if needed)
5. Turn neck to .011 (if needed)

Stage 4: Loading (by position)
1. Lyman M Die (sizes neck since Dillon trim die doesn’t)
2. Charge (AK funnel) & prime
3. Powder Check
4. Forster Ultra Micrometer Seater Die
5. Lee Factory Crimp Die (Because I already have one
Well, I hope you're wrong about the Lee Pacesetter dies cause I did 500+ cases yesterday lolol. Funny thing is something felt a off so I ordered a Sheridan gauge yesterday as well. Well see, if so, live and learn :evil:
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r.tenorio671
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by r.tenorio671 »

AndyT wrote:Ok so first I take my brass that's been once fired from 5.56 and look at it to make sure that it's not damaged. Next step is the variable, sometimes I'll clean it then deprime it before doing anything else and sometimes I'll leave it dirty. Next I get a usps priority mail box and a large ziplock bag or three. I throw all that brass in the ziplock, put on addresses and postage, and then mail it to someone else to process because I'm lazy and the process sucks with my equipment. I found out after it took me an hour to do 50 cases that it wasn't worth my time when there's people processing for fairly cheap.

Not really on topic but yeah.

....sounds like time and convenience are high on your priority list, recommend you just purchase your initial supply of brass. John of Carolina Brass is "same day" shipping fast and his product is excellent & to spec. I've ordered from multiple vendors and John's has been the only brass to pass my Sheridan when I open the package and check them before loading. If you have USPS home delivery, it comes right to your door and now lines to deal with.

...FWIW, whenever I need to restock fresh 300BLK, 556 & 7.62 brass, I get it exclusively from John...


http://www.carolinabrass.net/apps/webstore/
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strobro32
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by strobro32 »

I've made about 5000 cases in the last two years. I dream of buying new or converted cases, but then I spend the money on primers and powder. :)

1. Collect used American made brass off the ground at range.
2. Chop cases to 1.358" with Harbor Freight mini saw and jig.
3. Wash 30 mins in Frankfort Arsenal wet tumbler without pins. Dry over night.
4. Tumble lube in ziplock bag with 1 spray alcohol/lanolin.
6. Size/deprime with RCBS die.
7. Trim to 1.355" with Giraud Tr Way Trimmer in a drill. I trim about 100-200 at a time so my fingers don't hurt from holding the cases
8. Wash 1 hr in Frankfort Arsenal wet tumbler with SS pins. Dry over night.
9. Swage crimped cases. *Not every Military/NATO crimped case needs to be reamed/swaged. I hand prime all newly converted crimped cases. If there is resistance when priming a case, I will put that case in a pile. Those cases get swagged with a Dillon swager.

I use the 1X fired rifle case for high velocity BLK. After that, all cases get used for subs until the primer pockets fail.
Last edited by strobro32 on Sat Jun 11, 2016 4:01 pm, edited 8 times in total.
If it doesn't splatter, shatter, burst, boing or explode, it's not worth shooting.
hardcase
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by hardcase »

AndyT wrote:Ok so first I take my brass that's been once fired from 5.56 and look at it to make sure that it's not damaged. Next step is the variable, sometimes I'll clean it then deprime it before doing anything else and sometimes I'll leave it dirty. Next I get a usps priority mail box and a large ziplock bag or three. I throw all that brass in the ziplock, put on addresses and postage, and then mail it to someone else to process because I'm lazy and the process sucks with my equipment. I found out after it took me an hour to do 50 cases that it wasn't worth my time when there's people processing for fairly cheap.

Not really on topic but yeah.
+1 :P
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SwampDog_13
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by SwampDog_13 »

strobro32 wrote:I've made about 5000 cases in the last two tears. I dream of buying new or converted cases but then I spend the money on primers and powder. :)

I make 100-200 at a time so my fingers don't hurt from holding the cases in the Giraud trimmer.

1. Pick used American made brass off ground at range.
2. Chop to .3.38" with Harbor Freight mini saw and jig.
3. Wash 30 mins in Frankfort Arsenal wet tumber, no pins.
4. Dry over night.
5. Tumble lube in ziplock bag with 1 spray alcohol/lanolin.
6. Size/deprime with RCBS die.
6. Trim to 3.55" with Giraud Tr Way Trimmer in a drill.
7. Wash 30 mins in Frankfort Arsenal wet tumber, with pins.
8. Dry over night.
9. Swage crimped cases. Not every crimped case needs to be reamed/swaged. I hand prime all new crimped cases. If there is resistance priming a case, I will put those cases in a pile. Those cases get swagged with a Dillon swager.
Again I'll start this off with my disclaimer of not being as skilled or knowledgeable as a lot of the reloaders on here but I would recommend you trim just a little shorter, they tend to work better.:mrgreen:
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strobro32
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Re: Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyones is diff.

Post by strobro32 »

Opps! LOL. Fixed it.
If it doesn't splatter, shatter, burst, boing or explode, it's not worth shooting.
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