Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

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DoubleJ
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Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by DoubleJ »

If I'm reading this right, the advantage to the slotted gauge is that you can see where you messed up, like a bulged neck or shoulder not back far enough? If that's the case, and non slotted gauges are just go/no go, shouldn't all gauges be slotted?
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by Hardrockshot »

Yes, and I will never buy another gauge unless it is slotted. Make life a lot easier on those of that are not engineers!
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gds
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by gds »

I have a custom non slotted gauge and I really like it. but it may become a slotted gauge really soon
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Zapp
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by Zapp »

DoubleJ wrote:If I'm reading this right, the advantage to the slotted gauge is that you can see where you messed up, like a bulged neck or shoulder not back far enough? If that's the case, and non slotted gauges are just go/no go, shouldn't all gauges be slotted?
Personally, I would like to sell only slotted gauges. But some people really want the unslotted one. Whether it is because the price is the same as the other brands, or just wanting a standard gauge similar to what the other companies make.

I do hear a lot more from people who bought the standard, then later want to upgrade to the slotted one. Don't think I've ever heard from someone who bought the slotted and wished they'd gotten a standard.
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r.tenorio671
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by r.tenorio671 »

....the more information you can gather, the better the resolution you can develop and apply to any problem(s) :mrgreen:

...I started with the original Sheridan and once the slotted versions became available I snapped some up in 300BLK & 556 ASAP. It pretty much eliminated any "mis-reads" I was making on determining issues with rounds and speeded up and simplified my overall processes. There is a "cost benefit" realized with the slotted version, both monetarily (fewer components consumed, additional case prep tools acquired) as well as the personal time to work the issues out.

...I expanded how I use my 300BLK and 556 Slotted Sheridan gauges, other than just checking completed rounds:

-check FL SB sizing / expander die setting (if sized brass passes gauge, setting is correct for base and neck OD sizing)
-check bullet seating die setting (ogive variations are discernible with calipers, gauge verifies if COAL exceeds SAAMI chamber length)
-check case cut/trim lengths (if converting brass, debur before inserting. If purchased brass, confirm claimed specs)
-check individual bullets/brands for contact points on ogive for max seating depth in SAAMI chamber (viewtopic.php?f=141&t=91756&start=10)
-check completed round for chambering compliance

I tend to process and load my brass in "batches", by adopting the first four listed items, I have saved myself considerable time & effort, not to mention components, by preventing issues cropping up after the rounds have been loaded and require dissassembly.

I've been fortunate to have received Sheridan's .45ACP slotted gauge recently and thoroughly testing it now, in the manner as the others. All I can say is if you shoot/load .45ACP, invest in one of these!! :mrgreen:

I load for multiple firearms/barrels in all of my calibers and enough variation exists between barrel chambers that to ensure 100% functionality across all of them, I have to load everything as much as possible to minimum SAAMI specs. I formerly used EGW, Wilson and Lyman gauges, all good products, BUT.... they all had a common flaw, you couldn't "SEE" the actual issue, only that you had an issue.

With Sheridan's slotted gauges...it's right there in front of your eyes, displayed for all to see! No more of the hours spent doing the "try this or try that, hide & seek" to get it right.

Yeah, I'm a big believer in their product and rightly so, it's a damn good one, period! I use it so much more than intended, I suspect I'll cause it to wear faster. I'm wondering if a QPQ finish would be possible to increase longevity, seeing as QPQ reportedly doesn't cause dimension changes. I suspect it will increase cost, but I see it as being worthwhile for the increased longevity gained...just my $0.02...
Whole Bunches
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by Whole Bunches »

I will say is that the Sheridan 300BLK gage was the greatest tool/aid for Blackout reloading to have been invented. Every reloader of the Blackout should have one (and they could be useful for shooters who buy reloads done by others). I happen to have both styles, but would choose slotted if only buying one style. I use unslotted more for general checking/setting up my sizing die and spot checking purchased formed brass. Slotted, I use for trouble shooting.
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BlkBeard
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by BlkBeard »

Just switched to slotted myself, won't be going back.

My other calibers will become slotted after I drop them off at a friends machine shop.
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Zapp
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by Zapp »

BlkBeard wrote:Just switched to slotted myself, won't be going back.

My other calibers will become slotted after I drop them off at a friends machine shop.
Are these Sheridan gauges you are slotting, or some other brand? It doesn't make sense to slot a gauge if they are the type with an oversized diameter.

The time spent cleaning it up/deburring it without the reamer/inspection tools will probably make you regret doing it that way. The resale on the standards is actually pretty good, just a suggestion :)
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by RDA »

One other advantage to the slotted gauge is when I am gauging ammo, I can use my thumb in the slot to quickly push out the round. Makes gauging a little faster/easier for me.

I have Zapp's (Sheridan) slotted gauge in .223 and 300 BLK.
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Re: Gauges - Slotted vs. Non

Post by flyingrhino »

I use both. I originally purchased the non slotted for the Blackout. I started out using a particular die set. None of my rounds would drop freely into the gage so I purchased the slotted gage to try to ID the issue. By turning the round in the slotted gage I could see the problem. Found that the bullets were not seated concentricly (?) in the case. Changed dies and problem went away. Now I just use the non slotted gage unless I don't have one that drops in properly then I check with the slotted gage. My opinion is that both are a must. The only reason I would not use the slotted exclusively is that with the non concentric rounds I could turn the round in the slotted gage and when the high point of the bullet came to the slot it would seat all the way. So, if I only used the slotted gage I could possibly have some non concentric rounds pass the drop test if they went in just right.
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