STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

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SafetyJoe
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by SafetyJoe » Wed Jan 11, 2017 6:01 am

I tested another 5 each of these

CJ 8 - .014"
RAM 223 - .014"
AB 556 - .015" to .016"

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Rooter pig
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Rooter pig » Wed Jan 11, 2017 7:16 am

I've been shooting the pmc brass in a 300 pistol and it damages the rims with the extraction. Only getting one loading with part of the brass. I'm assuming it is the small letters as I need a magnifying glass to read.

SafetyJoe
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by SafetyJoe » Sat Jan 14, 2017 11:25 pm

I tested a batch of 3
TW 67 - .012"

I tested a batch of 4
NOSLER - .012"

I would have tested more, but those were the only one I have right now.

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Jon_Garfio
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Jon_Garfio » Tue Apr 04, 2017 11:20 am

Hi,

I used:

Fiocchi 5.56 brass from Spanish army, perfect fit for blk, only cut and trim 1.368". I fired about 500 and no problems.

IMI 5.56 brass from Spanish army, they have the primer´s pocket crimp, is the only issue.
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BallisticTools
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by BallisticTools » Mon Apr 10, 2017 3:53 am

List updated with new data. Thanks to the people contributing.
ballistictools.com/store
Blackout brass, gauges, and more

LVLAaron
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by LVLAaron » Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:08 pm

BallisticTools wrote:Originally compiled by tlee_20, updated with user reports. In general, the wall thickness around 1.360 inches from the base will determine success or failure. As a rule of thumb, if the wall thickness is greater than 0.014, there may be problems with the loaded diameter of the neck being too large to chamber easily.
How do you come up with .014? It should be .013

Spec for the neck width is .334.

.334 - .308 = 26/2. That's gives us .013 for max wall thickness.

http://saami.org/specifications_and_inf ... df#page=13

Code: Select all

Maximum cartridge = .3340
Minimum Chamber = .3350
.335 is the minimum chamber, not the maximum cartridge size.

Spike
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Spike » Sat Jul 08, 2017 4:56 pm

FWIW I tried some TAA today and could hardly get it through the resizer and it wouldn't drop into a Lyman 300blk case gauge.

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smustian
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by smustian » Sat Jul 08, 2017 5:18 pm

Spike wrote:FWIW I tried some TAA today and could hardly get it through the resizer and it wouldn't drop into a Lyman 300blk case gauge.
See Note 4 on page 1 about TAA.

Drcarren
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Drcarren » Sun Nov 26, 2017 9:12 pm

I am new to loading 300blk out and I am having a lot of trouble. I'm using once fired .223 and 5.56 cases. I've had more failure to chamber problems than I would have ever imagined. I've read through the forum and sorted the brass as suggested. I'm measuring every piece of brass for case length, COL and wall thickness. It's at best, hit and miss getting rounds to chamber. Factory ammo has no problem. I'm beginning to think my sizing die is no good. I'm at the point that I am making dummy rounds and checking to see if they will chamber. Essentially I'm doing the work twice.
I have the Hornady 300 BO die set and the Hornady Lock n load classic single stage press. I'm using 147 grn bullets I purchased from Reloading Valley. Not sure of the brand of bullets but like I said before, some rounds will chamber a lot won't. That being said, I don't think the bullets are the problem. I'm sizing the brass and trimming to 1.360 -1.363 inches in length. Wall thickness is .010" - .013".
I'm at my wits end, does anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.

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smustian
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by smustian » Sun Nov 26, 2017 10:15 pm

Drcarren wrote:I am new to loading 300blk out and I am having a lot of trouble. I'm using once fired .223 and 5.56 cases. I've had more failure to chamber problems than I would have ever imagined. I've read through the forum and sorted the brass as suggested. I'm measuring every piece of brass for case length, COL and wall thickness. It's at best, hit and miss getting rounds to chamber. Factory ammo has no problem. I'm beginning to think my sizing die is no good. I'm at the point that I am making dummy rounds and checking to see if they will chamber. Essentially I'm doing the work twice.
I have the Hornady 300 BO die set and the Hornady Lock n load classic single stage press. I'm using 147 grn bullets I purchased from Reloading Valley. Not sure of the brand of bullets but like I said before, some rounds will chamber a lot won't. That being said, I don't think the bullets are the problem. I'm sizing the brass and trimming to 1.360 -1.363 inches in length. Wall thickness is .010" - .013".
I'm at my wits end, does anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Measure the neck of a loaded round and make sure that it is .3340 max. If over then the bullet may be oversized or the case mouth is flared slightly. Get a Lee Factory Crimp die to take the flare out. Invest in a slotted Sheridan gauge. It will allow you to see what the round looks like in a chamber and show you where the round problem is located (neck, shoulder, base, etc).

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