STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

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Aussiehunter
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Aussiehunter »

Hi guys, new to this forum, but not new to guns, etc. Converting range pick-ups for my own AAC SD, I have had the same issues, quickly discovering that certain brands of 223 cases are too thick in the neck area AFTER the case has been formed. I've been using range pick-ups in 223, 204 ruger and 222 rem, trimming and resizing them TWICE through my Lee dies. I "slugged" my chamber and measured it carefully against the SAAMI drawings and found it to be almost prefectly accurate in size. While neck THICKNESS is a good measuring point, I found that neck DIAMETER AFTER forming is a better indicator of size. My rifle will tolerate 0.334 neck dia. with a bullet seated. Dia. larger than that (0.3345 and higher) will NOT chamber fully or at all. A 0.334 LOADED size equates to 0.332 MAX with a genuine 0.308 dia. bullet. I'd already made up some cases and run-in loads prior to receiving the rifle, and was bemused to find only half would chamber. My cure was to purchase the neck turning attachment for my Lyman Accu trimmer and turn the necks to 0.329 AFTER sizing from remade brass. Each and EVERY case gets measured at the neck 0.080 thou down and any oversize ones are turned. My working limit is 0.332 without a bullet seated. So far, I have had zero issues with chambering, closing the bolt, firing, extraction, etc.
Current case brands: Lake City NATO, Federal NATO & commercial (222 rem and 223), PPU, Winchester (222 rem, 223 and 204R), Hornady (204 Ruger), ADI, RP, Geco, WCC NATO, and several other military cases. MOST form fine and DO NOT require neck turning. I have also found that the more the case has been fired PRIOR to converting to Blackout, the LESS likely it will need turning. 222 Rem brass needs anealling because the die is expanding the neck, not swaging down the case body to size. Usually, 1 in 3 - 4 will neck split if I don't aneall them, but when formed, they work just fine. Just my $0.02 8)
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Aussiehunter
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Aussiehunter »

Worn wrote:Is there any relationship between thin and thick brass and whether the cartridge is .223 or the higher pressure 5.56 NATO?

This thread has convinced me that my future 5.56 ammo will be purchased taking into account the type brass used, if it can be determined.

Along with the Good Brass, Bad Brass list earlier, is there a Good Ammo, Bad Ammo list based on whether the brass used is good for converting to 300 BLK? If not, should we start one?

For me, there is no good or bad headstamp, I've worked out what I need to do with home-made brass for my rifle, and I follow a set operation for each case. It's moderately time consuming doing it my way, but so far, I've had great success converting everything I've picked up EXCEPT steel cases. They won't form correctly (yet) in my Lee die, so I threw them aside until I can figue them into the process.
Cheers.
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shsrcat
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by shsrcat »

I think I found another headstamp that may be a problem for those of us who make our own 300 BLK cases. I had a few ICC cases that weren't on the list. I cut and formed the cases along with a bunch of LC brass. Every ICC case would not pass the Sheridan case gauge test - which I didn't start using until I had several cartridges that wouldn't go into battery and got stuck. Lesson learned - use a Sheridan gauge and don't use ICC brass.
BallisticTools
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by BallisticTools »

Worn wrote:Is there any relationship between thin and thick brass and whether the cartridge is .223 or the higher pressure 5.56 NATO?

This thread has convinced me that my future 5.56 ammo will be purchased taking into account the type brass used, if it can be determined.

Along with the Good Brass, Bad Brass list earlier, is there a Good Ammo, Bad Ammo list based on whether the brass used is good for converting to 300 BLK? If not, should we start one?
There's no consistent difference between "5.56" and "223" when it comes to brass.

It's hard to put together an ammo list because the large manufacturers seem to use whatever's laying around for cheap FMJ ammo. When you buy "federal" 5.56 ammo it may have an FC headstamp or it might be military LC, military LC rejects, or who knows what. This isn't just true of FC/LC either, it seems a lot of the manufacturers have multiple factories/multiple sources for casings and it can vary even within the same branding of ammo.

Updated list for new data: ICC based on previous post, and I just tried a FRONTIER which was thick.
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Falconx50
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Falconx50 »

Thank you!

I was just looking for this as I'm about to sort some brass to send to Detroit for processing.
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Falconx50
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Falconx50 »

One question, I didnt see ADCOM brass listed? It has an AD headstamp.
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BallisticTools
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by BallisticTools »

Falconx50 wrote:One question, I didnt see ADCOM brass listed? It has an AD headstamp.
Try it and see. You can give us neck outer diameter with a 308 bullet seated and we can work backward from there if you have trouble measuring the wall thickness.

Most of the headstamps listed are ones that Tlee or myself have encountered, with some added in from other people's anecdotal posts.
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FilippoMo
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by FilippoMo »

I have an IK 03 that measures .012 and very uniform .0003 runout,who made this case?
Filippo
BallisticTools
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by BallisticTools »

FilippoMo wrote:I have an IK 03 that measures .012 and very uniform .0003 runout,who made this case?
Filippo
IK is yugoslavian surplus, thanks for the data
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Falconx50
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Falconx50 »

BallisticTools wrote:
Falconx50 wrote:One question, I didnt see ADCOM brass listed? It has an AD headstamp.
Try it and see. You can give us neck outer diameter with a 308 bullet seated and we can work backward from there if you have trouble measuring the wall thickness.

Most of the headstamps listed are ones that Tlee or myself have encountered, with some added in from other people's anecdotal posts.
Will do once I'm setup for this cartridge.
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