STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

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Geezerbiker
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Geezerbiker »

S&B .223 brass converted has a neck thickness of .013

Lapua match .223 brass converted has a neck thickness of .0125

I haven't had a chance to load up any of the brass from these 2 brands but I did make load a dummy round from the Lapua and it chambers and ejects well from my Handi rifle.
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Whistler
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Whistler »

S&B .223 Rem brass shoots really well out of my .223, so I thought it would be excellent to use for the Blackout. Bohooo... None chambers, the case walls are really fat. Should've read this list before I converted about 200 pieces by hand. Actually I should have tried with one or two even before that. Well, well...
skizzums
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by skizzums »

I have only had problems with the shoulder on these "bad" brass headstamps. My quick solution was just grinding the shellholder downs 1/32 and now haven't had issues. If your stuck with a bunch of brass that won't chamber you could buy a .307 sizing die for your bullets and deal with the slighy decrease in accuracy. Obviously the beat route is just to use proper brass in the first place, but I know some, including myself have already cit down brass that won't work.
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dellet
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by dellet »

skizzums wrote:I have only had problems with the shoulder on these "bad" brass headstamps. My quick solution was just grinding the shellholder downs 1/32 and now haven't had issues. If your stuck with a bunch of brass that won't chamber you could buy a .307 sizing die for your bullets and deal with the slighy decrease in accuracy. Obviously the beat route is just to use proper brass in the first place, but I know some, including myself have already cit down brass that won't work.
It would make more sense to correct the brass if you are committed to using it. There are plenty of options for inexpensive tools to turn the outside of the neck, or ream the inside.

I don't quite understand how bumping the shoulder back farther corrected a thick brass issue? That is a die issue, if grinding the shell holder corrected the problem.

If you have brass that is .014 thick the cartridge will be .336 at the neck and out of spec., if your chamber is on the high end of the spec at .337 it will chamber, but may not feed reliably. If your chamber is at the low end of .335, it does not matter how far back you move the shoulder, it will stick.
300 Blackout, not just for sub-sonics.
Geezerbiker
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Geezerbiker »

I only cut down a handful of S&B cases so it didn't make me feel bad to toss them in the brass recycling bucket. If I had cut down a lot of them, I'd be looking into a neck reamer...

Tony
skizzums
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by skizzums »

I jusr formed 500 rounds of nickel plated LC and nickel PMC brass. no issues. I didn't see if it as on the list.

lc(nickel)-0.011
PMC(nickel)-0.012
Gnfghtr
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Gnfghtr »

Does anyone have a pic of the old PMC head stamp? I picked up a bunch recently and hope that it's GT1.
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mag410
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by mag410 »

The following is an average weight of 5 cases:
PMC _______ 105.1 grains
< P M C> ____ 97.1 grains
P M C _______ 94.6 grains
P M C "W" ____ 92.9 grains M looks like an upside down "W"
LC _______ 92.0 grains

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Pawpaw40
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Pawpaw40 »

I wish I had found this website and thread before I converted 200 rounds of mixed brass. Didn't start looking for answers until I ran into a bunch that would not chamber during load development. Had to beat the action open.
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Re: STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk

Post by Worn »

Is there any relationship between thin and thick brass and whether the cartridge is .223 or the higher pressure 5.56 NATO?

This thread has convinced me that my future 5.56 ammo will be purchased taking into account the type brass used, if it can be determined.

Along with the Good Brass, Bad Brass list earlier, is there a Good Ammo, Bad Ammo list based on whether the brass used is good for converting to 300 BLK? If not, should we start one?
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