300BlkTalk

All things 300 AAC BLACKOUT
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 2:26 am 
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Hello. I am new to this forum and new to the 300 AAC Blackout cartridge. I recently purchased a 300 Blackout rifle before the tragedy in CT, and now I am unable to find any ammo for it with all the insanity that has come as a result. Actually, it was always my intention to learn how to reload my own 300 Blackout ammo so I purchased a set of dies by Hornady when I bought the rifle. Here is a link to what I purchased: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/935590 ... 00-whisper

I have two problems however. First, I have ZERO experience reloading ammo for any caliber. Second, I have not been able to find any 300 Blackout brass with which to reload. As far as the first issue goes, I do have friends who are avid reloaders and have lots of equipment they are willing to let me use but they do not reload 300 Blackout. As far as the second issue goes, I do have LOTS of .223 and 5.56 brass and I have seen videos on youtube showing how you can convert those to 300 Blackout. The only problem is I do not know precisely what they are talking about and what equipment they are using in the videos since I am a complete newbie to reloading.

So... I was hoping to get some help from this forum, and hopefully in layman's terms. What equipment do I need to buy (aside from the basic reloading equipment like a press) in order to convert my .223/5.56 brass to 300 Blackout? Will the above mentioned Hornady dies work for this purpose or do I need something totally different? Is there some resource, other than youtube, that can walk me through the process?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 10:27 am 
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I too recently jumped into the blkout world. Fortunately, I had been reloading for many years and knew that ammo was going to be limited. The beauty of the blkout is that it is very easy to manufacture your own ammo. .308 bullets and 5.56 brass are plentiful. With a little time and patience, you will be on track. Also, begin your quest after this with a good reloading manual or two. Read them, and then read them again. Do not skip the how-to section in the front before you go to the load data. There is vital information that you need to educate yourself on prior to jumping in with both feet. The why's and what to look for's will keep you from blowing up your gun or yourself later! I will give you the run-down of my process and the tools I use. I know some others on here do it differently, but this worked for me so far.

As with everything, preform at your own risk and good luck.

Step 1 : Tumble / Polish brass

Step 2 : Cut .223 / 5.56 brass to desired length. (+/- 1.368") - I have used a bandsaw, dremel, and currently use the Hardor Freight cut-off saw with the jig sold in the classifieds on this site.

Step 3 : Chamfer in and out of cut off case using any of the commercial hand tools to avoid damaging sizing die.

Step 4 : Lube cut cases and run through sizing / decapping die. I use the same Hornady Dies that you purchased.

Step 5 : Trim cases to trim length and square up case mouth (1.368") I use a Hornady Cam lock trimmer.

Step 6 : Camfer and Debur the case again.

Step 7 : Swage the primer pockets (just the first time) I use RCBS swagger kit.

Step 8 : Prime with small rifle primers using hand priming tool or press mounted device.

Step 9 : Dispense and weigh powder then funnel into case

Step 10 : Seat bullet to desired COL. (case overal length)

Step 11 : Crimp bullet using Lee Factory Crimp die


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:52 am 
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Silent But Deadly

Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:21 am
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Location: person county NC
Be sure to pick up a Wilson case length headspace gauge. It is probably the best way to know if the shoulder is set back properly after forming. It is also a good way to quickly check trim length.

Also get a Sheridan ammo gauge, a member here is a source. It replicates the 300BLK chamber so you can spot problematic brass before loading it or potentially problematic rounds that have already been loaded. Using it reduces the potential for running into a feed issue at the range.

For low volumes, you could do the initial cut on .223 brass with a small hand held hydraulic line tubing cutter. Chuck the cartridge in a 1/2" variable speed drill & turn at low speed if your wrist gets tired while cutting. A little less mess than a saw. Position the blade just enough below the shoulder for roller contact on both sides of the blade. You'll get to where you can eyeball the proper cut line pretty well & greatly reduce the amount of final trim needed.

Nick

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 10:05 pm 
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This forum rocks!! I feel MUCH better now about my prospects for my 300 Blackout rifle!

I picked up the Harbor Freight saw today, and just sent a payment to VZ58 for one of his jigs. I also ordered the Lee Factory Crimp die as well as the LE Wilson Case Length Headspace Gauge. My friend has a single stage and progressive stage press, brass cleaner and powder measure. I believe he has the chamfer and debur tool and case trimmer as well. I am not sure about a primer pocket swager though.

Is there a special die you need for the case trimmer? I talked to a guy at a local gun store who reloads 300 Whisper and he told me I would need to pick up a Redding Trim Die so I ordered this from MidwayUSA: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/757107 ... n-fireball

Is this used in the case trimmer? It is on backorder so I can cancel the order if it is unnecessary. It was $60 so I would just as soon skip it if it isnt really needed. The demonstrations I have seen use some hand crank looking thing that holds 1 piece of brass and is turned manually to shave off the end of the case mouth. Does the trim die go in that or do they use a generic .30 caliber piece?

What kind of powders are most commonly used for 300 Blackout?

Is there a manual or book anybody can recommend? I am not afraid to do my homework and I will be working with my friend who has a lot of reloading experience though not for 300 Blackout.

Thank again for all the help! This forum kicks A!

-Martin


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 12:09 am 
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Trim to 1.358', 1.368' is a Max trim length.

Rob

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:20 am 
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here's my video i uploaded to youtube, make note however, i didnt do 2 and 3 bc it was one handed

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4izLUKYDb08

1 - trim below shoulder
2 - lightly chamfer/debur prior to FL size
3 - apply lube
4 - size and deprime
5 - trim to end length - i use 1.357-8

i find that after FL sizing, it changes 5-8 thousandths of an inch.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:51 am 
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I think the redding trim die is going to be slower than the other kinds of trimming methods. I use the "Little Crow Gunworks Worlds Finest Trimmer" http://www.midwayusa.com/product/251243/little-crow-gunworks-worlds-finest-trimmer-300-aac-blackout. It works great for me and is very fast once you have the length dialed down to what you want. Heck, I think even Lee's case length gage would even be faster if you put it in a drill http://www.midwayusa.com/product/518134/lee-case-length-gage-and-shellholder-300-aac-blackout.

Right now it seems to me like the most common powders are H110, Lil' gun, and 1680. Some guys are loading with Unique for non-AR platforms. Google what other people are loading in their AR's. It's a much broader search than just this forum and you get a wider "sampling" of what's out there.

-Yang


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 11:16 am 
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Okay, so I cancelled the order for the Redding Trim Die
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/757107 ... n-fireball

And ordered the Lee Case Length Gage and Shellholder
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/518134 ... c-blackout

I also ordered the Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476992 ... -lock-stud

I am assuming these two pieces go into one of those hand crank case trimmers like the Hornady Cam Lock Trimmer that IdahoFireman mentioned. Is this correct?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 12:58 pm 
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Silent But Deadly
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ut_dtom wrote:
First, I have ZERO experience reloading ammo for any caliber.


Do yourself a favor and get some good books and manuals on reloading
read them, take notes and make sure you comprehend the entire process.
It will save you a lot of heart-ache down the road.

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PSA 10.5" & 16'' FN CHF CL 300 AAC Blackout


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 1:05 pm 
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Location: person county NC
The way Lee has it set up, the shell holder turns (if you use their zip trim ) & you hold the cutter w/length gauge pin steady. W/out the zip trim, you hold case in holder in one hand & the cutter w/gauge pin in the other and twist.

The gauge pin indexes on the flat surface behind the primer pocket when in the case holder, so you could just hold the brass base against a flat steel surface, chuck the cutter in a 1/2" variable speed drill and gently cut till the pin hits the supporting surface (as opposed to fitting it to a case holder each time). Alternatively, fit brass in the shell holder, chuck the cutting into a stationary drill (like a drill press), pick a low speed & lift the brass to the cutter til done, load up a new piece of brass & repeat...


Nick

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