have a few headstamps that aren't listed in the conversion thread. (BLH and P-A RH)
I'm measuring the neck wall thickness, right? when would I measure it? After cutting down, or after resizing?
converting measurement
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Re: converting measurement
After resize.
Re: converting measurement
I would stick with the head stamps that are known to be good. .223 brass is plentiful and it works. I would hate to go though all of the work to convert the case then find out you have to either turn the necks or pitch them in the scrap bucket.
Get a batch of once fired .223 and go from there. Lake City is always a good bet.
Get a batch of once fired .223 and go from there. Lake City is always a good bet.
Bitter Gun Owner
Bitter Clinger
ArmedInfidel
Bitter Clinger
ArmedInfidel
Re: converting measurement
Trim and size as you would to shoot.
Pick a bullet that will seat the full length of the neck, and seat it deep enough that it fils the whole neck.
Measure the neck with bullet seated at three places, top, middle, bottom. All three places need to be under .335”
Without special tools, it’s almost impossible to accurately measure neck thickness and most converted brass has a taper so you need to get to the bottom of the neck. Much easier to just seat a bullet and measure outside then confirm it fits your chamber.
Or buy a quality loaded ammo gauge like a Sheridan.
Pick a bullet that will seat the full length of the neck, and seat it deep enough that it fils the whole neck.
Measure the neck with bullet seated at three places, top, middle, bottom. All three places need to be under .335”
Without special tools, it’s almost impossible to accurately measure neck thickness and most converted brass has a taper so you need to get to the bottom of the neck. Much easier to just seat a bullet and measure outside then confirm it fits your chamber.
Or buy a quality loaded ammo gauge like a Sheridan.
300 Blackout, not just for sub-sonics.
Re: converting measurement
An RCBS Micrometer is like 60 bucks. I'll rest my hand on my leg and hold the 'C' between my thumb and last three fingers. Then support the brass with my forefinger, feeding that brass and working the clutch with my strong hand. Using the clutch is important for consistency.
You can flick with one hand and feed with the other. Goes about as fast as you can pick up the brass.
Once I form and size them, I measure everyone and figure it's faster than reading headstamps. Only a very few, if any, get thrown away at most.
Generally, they're obviously over or obviously ok. If I get a tweener, 0.0125", it's usually because of my poor grip and I simply check it again. It takes all the worry out.
If I want to sort brass, I do it later.
You can flick with one hand and feed with the other. Goes about as fast as you can pick up the brass.
Once I form and size them, I measure everyone and figure it's faster than reading headstamps. Only a very few, if any, get thrown away at most.
Generally, they're obviously over or obviously ok. If I get a tweener, 0.0125", it's usually because of my poor grip and I simply check it again. It takes all the worry out.
If I want to sort brass, I do it later.
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