order actions in creating brass

[wscrst]

Basic stuff for a newbie. My searches could not answer my question about the order in which certain actions are taken in making 300blk brass from .223. Feel free to direct me to an old thread. Google searches have revealed the following possible processes:

1. deprime .223 case. cut. size with 300blk die.
2. cut .223 case. size with 300blk die. deprime with 300blk die.
3. size a full size .223 case with 300blk die. cut. deprime with 300blk die.

To me, #3 looked very slick. However, I do not understand how the resizing to 300blk affects case thickness and how each of these process might optimize that. Thanks for any help.

[smustian]

cut 223
debur
size/deprime with blk die
trim to length
debur

[L1A1Rocker]

cut 223
debur
size/deprime with blk die
trim to length
debur

Same, except I start with an additional first step. Size and deprime with a SB 223 re-sizing die.

[bangbangping]

cut 223
debur
size/deprime with blk die
trim to length
debur

That originally was my process, and it worked well, but I've refined it. Current process is:

1. Buy factory brass

[bangbangping]

3. size a full size .223 case with 300blk die. cut. deprime with 300blk die.

To me, #3 looked very slick. However, I do not understand how the resizing to 300blk affects case thickness and how each of these process might optimize that. Thanks for any help.

That would save a step, as you wouldn't have to debur twice. However, you're jamming a .30 expander ball into a .223 neck. Haven't tried it, but I would expect it to take more effort and would expect some failures.

Here's another flow since you'll have to clean at some point. Pretty sure this is how I did it last time:
1. Decap with universal decapper
2. Cut
3. Wet tumble in stainless pins. (takes care of the initial debur)
4. Size in 300 BLK die.
5. Trim to length
6. Final chamfer/debur.

You'll be running through dies twice (steps 1 and 4) but personally I'd rather do that and skip the first debur. If annealing, I'd do it between 3 and 4.

Ultimately, there is no single correct way to do it. Whatever works for you and your tools. Mostly what works for me now is just buying brass.

[TreeTopFlier]

If its military brass:
deprime
swage primer pocket
clean
chop
form
trim and de bur to final length.

[phils3]

Actually, depends on if you are using a progressive or single stage press. This is for non primer crimped brass.

If you are using a single stage press, you should: Cut - tumble - size/deprime - trim - chamfer/deburr.

If you are using a progressive you should: tumble - size - cut - chamfer/deburr, and then deprime as first stage of progressive. Note: as part of the cut with the progressive process I rotate the case while holding the cutter down in order to get an even and square cut at the case mouth. This overall process is faster because you have taken the most time consuming step (trimming) out of the loop.

I will say using a progressive is alot faster once you get it dialed in. I'm using a lee pro 1000 that I found in the Cabelas bargain bin, I see them there here and there...

Combine all of this with a $20 off of $100 coupon at Cabelas for your S&B primers & powder with pulled bullets from american reloading, and you'll be making decent quality 300 BLK ammo fast and for easily under 25 cents a round!

[Alex Wilson]

Step 1: Buy Dillon 1050
Step 2: buy Dillon 1500 trimmer

Then all you have to do is pull the handle. My hands hurt from processing brass. Cutting down brass, deburring, swaging, cutting to length got really old for me. Now the only thing that hurts me is my wallet! Haha

Pre 1050 my steps were
Rough cut with mini chop saw
Size/deprime
Cut to length with Dillon trimmer
Swage with CH4D on single stage

[dbltaps]

Here's the method that works for me.

I remove the decapping pin from my 300BLK resizing die. I then resize my clean .223/5.56 brass, which necks down the case body to the proper size for 300BLK. I then cut off the excess brass and then trim to length using my Worlds's Finest Trimmer. I then put the decapping pin/expander ball back in my sizing die and run the case through again, which removes the primer and ensures propper neck tension. I then lightly chamfer/debur the case mouth, and I'm ready to load. Of course I perform each step in batches to save time... Following this procedure one cartridge at a time would drive me nuts!

[TRshootem]

This is how I have done a bunch...using Hornady sizing and seating dies, crimp loaded cases with LFCD.

*Clean, once fired LC or other of one head stamp
*Chop .223 case(to length that leaves about .010 for final trim)
*Deburr case mouth
*Anneal the entire batch(batches)
*Lube and size in 300 BLK die
*Clean the now sized brass
*Final trim to length
*deburr case
Annealing can be skipped when using LC or other brass that has been done by the factory. The case sizing/forming step runs very smoothly after annealing as the neck/shoulder is softer. Never have split a case, neck tension has been spot on. 2-3 firings, I anneal again. This eliminates at least one or more steps. Works for me