Daytona Tactical?????

[plant.one]

10 seconds is a quick change - does that require Bolt Carrier Group And Charging Handle in the 300BO upper? OR - does 10 seconds mean using the 5.56 BCG 'n Charging handle?

As you can tell from my elementary questions, I'm new at this AR15 stuff.

Ken H>

10 seconds assumes a complete upper - including bcg & ch. then its literally two pins out, remove upper, put new upper on, push pins back in & insert proper mag for caliber.

if i had to swap the BCG and CH i'd add on another 30 seconds or so. it would still be well under a minute.

it wont take you long to get used to doing it. removing the bcg & ch should be something you can essentially do with your eyes closed. AR's are setup for ease of maintenance.

[bowtex]

I got my 7.5" 5.56 from daytona tactical and I have no real complaints it fits my lower great(I didn't do a 80% for this one) and shoots really well. Everything on the upper looks well made for what I wanted it for. And the lpk was great the trigger was polished and the sharp edges rounded off like someone did a trigger job. It has no travel at all and breaks really smooth. Over all I am really impressed with the parts I got from them

[KenH]

Thanks Bowtex for the comment on DaytonaTactical - I still have not had a response to my email - makes me a tad leery about sending$500 to somebody that I can't get in touch with on phone nor email. I do understand they are only two men who stay pretty busy. I don't think I've read any comments their product isn't good, just lousy customer service.

Since I've ordered a 5.56 now, perhaps by the time I'm ready for a 300BO upper I might decide for them. Sure wish There were closer - I'd just ride over and pick up.

Ken H>

[KenH]

Kory - got the package today. THANK YOU!!! My 80% lower should be here Monday - got the 5.56 complete rifle kit Friday..... and the package of 300BO brass I ordered came today. That means I MUST order a 300BO upper {g}

I've got a desktop CNC mill I'd planned to use for spotting the holes that require drilling in the lower. I started to write the gcode today, but darn it - the CNC is acting up - giving limit switch errors. I KNOW the limit switches are good (check them), so I do think I've got a HAL file corrupted... or something along those lines.

Thank ya'll again for all the help.

Ken H>

[KenH]

OK, quick update - Got tracking number and lower is scheduled to be delivered Monday...... AND got the CNC working. The parallel port had been dis-abled in the bios - can't imagine how that happened. Enabled the on-board parallel port and now CNC is working like a champ. This will make it easy to drill holes and do the hammer and trigger cavity. While my CNC isn't large enough to handle the milling, it will scribe an outline of what needs cutting nicely. I'll have to create gcode from Ray Branden's coordinates.

Can anyone comment if all this dimensions and coordinates are correct for the AR15?

Ken H>

[KenH]

Just a quick update - Finished milling the 80% lower I got yesterday, fitted lower parts together (Thanks Vent625). Thanks to a buddy who brought over a magazine fully loaded and left the mag. Just a few minutes ago I was able to cycled a few rounds thru manually, then fired a couple in back yard - seems to work ok. Maybe tomorrow (depending on rain) I'll get to run several rounds thru. So far so good. Now to mount some sights {g}

Ken H>

[VENT625]

You're welcome and glad it's all coming together. I want pictures!!!

[KenH]

Tomorrow ok for photos? The lower is just raw aluminum. I plan to anodize later, but for now I just wanted to prove I could build it so it would work. The https://blitzkriegtactical.com/?view=store&prodID=328 I got proved to be good. I did have to open up a tad more where they had machined the pocket for the take down pin. When the upper was pushed in, the corners were rubbing a bit too much. Once it was pushed together, it was VERY hard to get back apart. I took a dremel type tool with a small grinding stone to work on inside a tad. Remove perhaps .010" on each side, now it's a good fit with no slack, but it slides in as it should.

Later

[plant.one]

congratz on your success.

as vent posted...











erm wait my bad wrong meme ... this is the one i was looking for

[KenH]

OK, I think I got this uploading stuff down - Photobucket kept showing "upload failed", but when I checked, there the photos were.

The first photo shows the 80% lower as I finished milling and drilling holes. Note the pistol screw hole - Not sure what happened here, but the 3/8" drill went a tad over the 1.25" and didn't clean up with endmill. This view isn't cleaned up at all - just fresh off mill.



Next photo shows a side view of assembled lower. Still not cleaned up. I lost 3 or 4 detent pins and had to make new pins from brass rod I had on hand (just right size). Not sure how it happened, but I lost the green disconnector spring. I just happened to have a long compression spring that was right diameter, so cut off to length. I made a slave pin for the trigger/disconnector assembly. I had a .186" brass rod, so turned a short section on lathe and it sure makes assembly easier. Vent625, THANK YOU again for the parts, I would have been SOL without because some parts were missing from the rifle kit I ordered and your parts allowed me to finish assembly.


This shows completed rifle. Shoots good - Just got back from firing 4 rounds thru AR - 2 slow fires, and 2 fast fires. All worked smooth as a whistle - AND I FOUND ALL 4 BRASS!!! The 2nd slow fire I was watching brass rather than dirt bank and saw where it landed - right beside the 1st round. I'm happy - now to put some sights on it.


I think I still want a 300BO - I enjoy casting and reloading. .308 just seems to be a better caliber for casting bullets for, and will work better with light loads than will the 5.56 - is this true? I have just started powder coating cast bullets and they sure seem to work good.

Thanks again to all for info and comments.