Straight pistol length gas tube

[xacex]

Confirmed, a JP JPGS8 .936" low pro gas block uses a standard pistol gas tube. I will have to measure the length of the gas block area when my barrel gets here on thursday, but it should work fine. I am using a YHM free float handguard "copy" which should fit fine according to the dimensions. I imagine you should have no problem with the DA9 GB fitting in the YHM, but it was designed for an AR10 so all bets are off. Good luck with your project.

[JDNC]

Confirmed, a JP JPGS8 .936" low pro gas block uses a standard pistol gas tube. I will have to measure the length of the gas block area when my barrel gets here on thursday, but it should work fine. I am using a YHM free float handguard "copy" which should fit fine according to the dimensions. I imagine you should have no problem with the DA9 GB fitting in the YHM, but it was designed for an AR10 so all bets are off. Good luck with your project.

I would wait for SLR's new GB but I think I'll order the DA9 and YH's SLR handguard and if it doesn't fit send it back.

[kilibreaux]

Looks like a custom tube is needed.
Buy a RIFLE length tube and cut that puppy down to fit!
It's not hard to mod the BCG end to handle the load.

[Rushthezeppelin]

Confirmed, a JP JPGS8 .936" low pro gas block uses a standard pistol gas tube. I will have to measure the length of the gas block area when my barrel gets here on thursday, but it should work fine. I am using a YHM free float handguard "copy" which should fit fine according to the dimensions. I imagine you should have no problem with the DA9 GB fitting in the YHM, but it was designed for an AR10 so all bets are off. Good luck with your project.

If you are talking about the fleabay FF with the detachable side/bottom rails I can confirm that mine is right at 1.75 ID which according to JP is big enough to fit their .936 gas block. Pretty damn good FF for the money, although I'm not a huge fan of the thread on style. It's hard to get indexed perfectly with my top rail (found that out trying to attach a scope with one ring on the upper and the other on the FF rail). Mine (on my 5.56 upper) has been abused in a few 3 gun matches so far and it is solid as a rock (albeit a bit on the heavy side). For my 300 though I decided on http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-FLOAT-QUAD ... 4d0cb50db6, once you index the attachment point it doesn't move.

[xacex]

Confirmed, a JP JPGS8 .936" low pro gas block uses a standard pistol gas tube. I will have to measure the length of the gas block area when my barrel gets here on thursday, but it should work fine. I am using a YHM free float handguard "copy" which should fit fine according to the dimensions. I imagine you should have no problem with the DA9 GB fitting in the YHM, but it was designed for an AR10 so all bets are off. Good luck with your project.

If you are talking about the fleabay FF with the detachable side/bottom rails I can confirm that mine is right at 1.75 ID which according to JP is big enough to fit their .936 gas block. Pretty damn good FF for the money, although I'm not a huge fan of the thread on style. It's hard to get indexed perfectly with my top rail (found that out trying to attach a scope with one ring on the upper and the other on the FF rail). Mine (on my 5.56 upper) has been abused in a few 3 gun matches so far and it is solid as a rock (albeit a bit on the heavy side). For my 300 though I decided on http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-FLOAT-QUAD ... 4d0cb50db6, once you index the attachment point it doesn't move.

No, the FF i picked up and have on several rifles is a copy of the standard YHM rail. No detachable rail sections. These are also 1.75 ID. I will have to look at the one you listed. Sometime I find a good deal, and sometimes it is junk. Roll the dice, or pay up sucker seems to be fitting.
these are what I have been using.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Inch-Full-Le ... 48614c78f3

and what they copied.
http://www.ar15m16.net/shop/details.asp ... SubOne=310

Uses YHM end caps if you like those. Never used one myself. I have tried these in pistol length to rifle length, and may have used a dozen or so on different builds. There is an indexing ring the same as YHM. I have only had one that didn't line up perfect with one rifle(same height of top rail). I put it on another and it was fine so it may have been the upper. I trued up the face of the upper with a lapping tool and the next rail went in perfect. I put these things through the ringer in the woods hunting deer with the 300, and elk with the 50 Beowulf. I use the shortest rail possible on the rifle to keep weight down, and put on ladder rail covers to get rid of "aluminum ring" sound when moving through the brush. Branches on aluminum makes a distinct sound if your hand or some sound deadening material is not on it.I can't remember where I got the rails from, but this guy has what I am using.
Thanks for the confirmation that the JP block will fit! NOw the only question is the length of the gas block area. The barrel should be here today for me to measure. If it is to short I may cut the gas block length a bit, or just let it be.

Edit: Not going to work with the JP due to the length. .88" to long. Went with a BTE mini adjustable. Just came out with a .936" adjustable. It is not listed on the site, but they just finished a batch.

[carcrusher]

I just ran into this problem on a sub/supersonic 458. I knew I'd need an adjustable gas block
to get it to run right. All the adjustable GB's are .150" taller than the usual .273 above the barrel Dia. and were going to need a straight tube (no offset) to line up with the gas key.

There are 2 ways to get a straight pistol length tube.

The easiest way is to order a rifle length tube and cut it to 6.680" with a brake tube cutter.

OR, if you have a lathe, you can straighten the factory tube. It isn't as hard as you'd think.
A new tube is soft Stainless 304. Straightens easily.
An older tube will work-harden and will be harder to straighten.
Put the shortest length (before the bends) in the chuck and straighten most of it by eye.
Don't get in a hurry and work methodically. Keep a jaw against your direction of bend, you'll have to rotate the tube in the chuck to
have that condition This will get a fairly straight tube in the lathe jaws as you work down the tube.
The hardest thing is to see the apogee of the bend.Work in a WELL lit area and use a straight edge if needed.
You can guide straightness by comparing the tube to the ways on the lathe bed.
Once you've done that, reverse the tube in the chuck and start working the other way down with a dial indicator.

If it rolls across a flat plate of metal, granite flat surface or pane of glass, you're good.
The back of a straight edge works too.