First AR pistol build - Help Request

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dellet
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Re: First AR pistol build - Help Request

Post by dellet »

I'm not sure where to start.

First and foremost a good read of the original post would have been helpful.
Dibs50 wrote:While I've owned AR's for years, this is my first pistol build. During function testing, I had FTE/FTF issues. I've searched this site and suspect that it's an over - gassing problem. I've attached some photos and hope someone could assist me.
My build took some time as I gathered the parts as I could afford them. Here are some details :
10.5" BA performance barrel
Tactical Machining upper
ALG 10" EMR V-3 handguard
Carbine length gas tube
Non-adjustable gas block
KAK Industry Flash Can
Anderson BCG
AERO Precision lower
Carbine buffer (2.9oz) and spring

I'm shooting handloads
147gr M80 pull downs over 17gr of Lil Gun. COAL: 2.145

Problem: I'm getting both a FTE and a FTF. Cycling one at a time, the BCG locks back on an empty mag. It has worked with 2 & 3 rounds in a mag. More than that and I start having problems. I've tried both 20 & 30 rounders, Military and civilian (Magpul) magazines. I don't see any signs of pressure. Should I be looking to get an adjustable gas block? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Some good ideas, some bad, some contradict.
kilibreaux wrote:The gun isn't clearing the fired case before picking up the new round. That means weak ejection, but not likely "undergassed" since a pistol length system puts plenty of gas into the system, unless the port is too small. A bolt that locks back on a single round fired, or works with three rounds but starts to act up on more means stack friction is overcoming bolt throw. The primers appear well flattened indicating adequate pressure, as evidenced also by the striations showing on the fired case jammed in the action, but clearly, the fact that two cases are present - one empty and one full, means the action failed to clear one before attempting to chamber the other.
You might need to experiment with a faster powder that moves your peak pressure curve closer to the port, or you can do as so many of us have and mount a Krinkov "brake" which is really a muzzle "booster" that increases back pressure and makes short barrel systems work. If you do go the Krink route, first, don't buy some other, high-dollar brand, stay with the "cheap" Krink, then shorten the straight tube section behind the cone-shaped funnel to gain clearance between bore exit and gas chamber. The Krinkov style "brake" was designed to make short-barrel AK's function and it will do the same with an 8 - 10" AR "pistol."
With the Krink "brake" you can then give some consideration to a heavier buffer so slow your cycling mass.
The pistol described has carbine gas and with the carbine buffer is configured correctly. That does not mean it can't be over gassed, as many would believe, even without a suppressor. The second part of too much weight for the magazine to feed is probably correct and slowing down the bolt speed would be the answer.

Changing to a faster powder could help, but not for the reasons stated. A faster powder than Lil'gun will have a higher peak, a faster rise and fall. This will actually move the peak away from the port and have less pressure at the port in a carbine gassed system. In this rare case it might solve the cycling problem if the powder was fast enough, or if too fast it will not cycle at all. The other thing it will likely do is lower the velocity, since most powders faster then Lil'gun will max out with pressure before achieving the same velocity.

Adding anything to increase pressure at the muzzle, therefore adding back pressure for cycling will increase the problem at hand.

The contradiction is suggesting a powder change to decrease port pressure, then adding a muzzle device to increase back pressure makes no sense that I can think of for this application.

kilibreaux wrote:Remember that 300 Blackout produces high pressure with low volume so your port pressure becomes more problematic. Examine a powder burn rate comparison chart and consider trying powders faster than you are using, or go with heavier bullets, or go with lighter bullets in the 110-125 grain range and go for velocity which means powder choices and charges that will cycle the pistol system without a hitch.
Again faster powders and heavier bullets will only enhance this problem and or create others. Going to a slower powder, especially if going to a heavier bullet, would give less pressure and higher velocity in this configuration.
300 Blackout, not just for sub-sonics.
cdl
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Re: First AR pistol build - Help Request

Post by cdl »

I've loaded, quite a few M80 pulls. Ferris jacket (magnetic). A 2.150" OAL fit fine in a GI mag. I use H-110 and my loads are "frisky". Yours appear to be similar. Maybe "friskier". That combo cracks chunks out of my AR500 target plates. 1840fps from an 8.3".

If the brass is flying out in front of you, and with that load I would expect it too, you can probably gain some reliability by slowing things down. Buffer before you add spring or an AGB. I wouldn't go to a faster powder. Lil Gun isn't my thing either. The myth is it runs hot.

The 556 case has a max pressure about 20% greater than 300 BLK. Over pressure can manifest itself in function first.
10Driver
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Re: First AR pistol build - Help Request

Post by 10Driver »

The person who posted this doesn’t appear to have been back since he posted in June 2018.
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plant.one
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Re: First AR pistol build - Help Request

Post by plant.one »

cdl wrote:I've loaded, quite a few M80 pulls. Ferris jacket (magnetic). A 2.150" OAL fit fine in a GI mag. I use H-110 and my loads are "frisky". Yours appear to be similar. Maybe "friskier". That combo cracks chunks out of my AR500 target plates. 1840fps from an 8.3".

begs to wonder if your plates have bad heat treating, or if you dont have true AR500 plates. or is your damage is happening in the HAV (heat affected zone near the outside) from being plasma cut maybe?

the impact velocity for damage from non steel core (true AP) ammo for ar-500 should be 3000 fps and above. we regularly shoot bi-metal jacket bullets at ar500 at velocitys exceeding your 1840 fps from the ak's and sk's.

5.56 will leave mild craters - if close enough for over 3000 fps impacts velocity - even with basic fmjs, but once you get out past about 75 yds 55 fmj just splash.

fwiw 204 ruger at 50 yds is a bad idea. its amazing what even those light thin skinnned vmax do at around 3700 fps. :oops: :oops: :mrgreen:
Reloading info shared is based on experiences w/ my guns. Be safe and work up your loads from published data. Web data may not be accurate/safe.
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cdl
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Re: First AR pistol build - Help Request

Post by cdl »

It's half inch plate and it was off the edges as you said, and at about 60 yards when I first wrecked it. The center craters are the typical shadow depth, but the chunks off the sides from the M80 / 300 Blk combo are disconcerting. Everything else seems to just splatter. It's there to be abused now. It taught me to be cautious with my other plates.

So a zombie thread sucked me in... probably won't be the last.
10Driver
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Re: First AR pistol build - Help Request

Post by 10Driver »

I personally wouldn’t consider this thread a Zombie, but the OP posted the question and then basically never came back.

I have seen some real Zombie posts by someone who was dead for several years. It truly was a little disconcerting to see his (the deceased forum member’s) name popping up in posts. Typical FNG newbie was resurrecting every single post the deceased had ever posted!

Why? Newbie thought all of the Zombie posts were brilliant. He was right, the guy was brilliant and missed from the forum. Not sure we needed to see all 5,000 of the posts again in just over a few weeks.
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plant.one
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Re: First AR pistol build - Help Request

Post by plant.one »

cdl wrote:It's half inch plate and it was off the edges as you said, and at about 60 yards when I first wrecked it. The center craters are the typical shadow depth, but the chunks off the sides from the M80 / 300 Blk combo are disconcerting. Everything else seems to just splatter. It's there to be abused now. It taught me to be cautious with my other plates.

So a zombie thread sucked me in... probably won't be the last.

in the future, make sure your plates are water jet cut, if you can

plasma cutting destroys the heat treating around the outside of the plate, and the plate mounting holes. that the HAV i was discussing. how hardened armor plate is handled is important!


at 60 yds - and a MV of 1840 - you should be doing NO damage other than taking the paint off your plate if its true ar500. i suspect your plate is ar300 and probably only rated for magnum pistol velocity's. i would stop using it for anything rifle and get some quality AR 500 plate(s) that are water jet cut at the very least.

and i wouldnt use a plate thats cratered for anything other than a decoration at this point.... those craters can cause richochet's - especailly when used with pistols at relatively close distances. better safe than sorry and picking jacket frags out of yourself.
Reloading info shared is based on experiences w/ my guns. Be safe and work up your loads from published data. Web data may not be accurate/safe.
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cdl
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Re: First AR pistol build - Help Request

Post by cdl »

My solution was to stop buying M80 bullets, but owning quality targets shows more than a fair amount of wisdom too.

In my defense, historically targets have been impulse purchases based on considered judgments like how many isles were left at the gun show and signs that say "Sale".
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