300 aac hulls made from the 223 hull????

[smustian]

Is there a difference in case capacity between a reworked .223 and an actual 300BO case?

Not enough to worry about. Different head stamps and mil spec vs standard all have slight variances. I have really never worried about it but if it concerns you, sort your brass by head stamp then they will all be the same for that load.

[farright]

I recently was given my blk out and found an easy way to make cases from 223 brass. I set up my mill to cut the case off at exactly 1.365 inches. the case goes into a v block in my vise when the handle is pullet down a 3/4 center cutting mill zips them off at the exact length in one quick move. I tried to find a way in my lathe but couldn't come up with a way to cut at the correct length every time. Because m y wife surprised me with a cz m-527 in 300 blk out I have decided to re new her contract for another year. I have only made it to the 100 yard range once and my best group so far is 1.4 inches c to c. I am positive I can shrink that down with a bit of load development. currently I have 2 test loads with the Harris bullet #72 nei. and one with a NOE copy of the Lyman 322331 mine weigh 222 gr. with my alloy. both seem to fit the throat and should shoot well. I am a tight wad and hate to spend money on jacketed bullets when I have a couple tons of wheel weights in my garage. I don't have the need for large numbers of cases with a bolt action as would be needed with an at-15. anyone know how hard it is to find the cases from simi auto rifles.

[John A.]

I bought one of VZ58's jigs.

It works amazingly well.

I only convert Federal/Lake City brass.

[plant.one]

anyone know how hard it is to find the cases from simi auto rifles.

dont have a problem with that at all, mine are all in the brass catcher

[farright]

anyone know how hard it is to find the cases from simi auto rifles.

dont have a problem with that at all, mine are all in the brass catcher

that is cheating for sure. it was easier when my kids were young and could pick them up for me. I think I need to move closer to a great grand kid

[Flatliner]

For me, I make my own brass because I enjoy the process of creation. Economically, when I consider the value of my time, it makes zero sense not to purchase it but I find the process therapeutic. Full disclosure, I am fairly new to the process and I am sure there are others on here with vastly more experience who do it different but this is what I do.

Step one: I sort brass by headstamp while sitting on boring conference calls at work. Most of what I load is once fired military brass with crimped primer pockets. As my eyes aren't what they used to be, I use a magnifying stand from my soldering set to assist with the sort:


Step two: I size/deprime and and add the 30cal neck in one step on my progressive press. Station one is a full length 223 size and deprime and station two is a 300 AAC die without the decapping pin.


Step three: I swedge the primer pockets, in my case I use my progressive press


Step four: I cut the neck on a home made fixture I created for a Harbor Freight mini chop saw:


Step five: I trim the cases to length, chamfer the case mouth (by hand) and clean out the primer pocket (also by hand)


Step six: I wet tumble the cases


Step seven: I anneal the cases with a home made annealing machine.


This may not be the best process but it works for me so far. I am very open to suggestions from the more experienced people here.

[hardcase]

If you buy brass to convert, try to stay away from machinegun brass, like from a SAW. Does not form as well.

[plant.one]

if you're wet tumbling, why are you cleaning the primer pockets by hand? toss those puppies in dirty and let the pins scrub them for you!

[dellet]

For me, I make my own brass because I enjoy the process of creation. Economically, when I consider the value of my time, it makes zero sense not to purchase it but I find the process therapeutic. Full disclosure, I am fairly new to the process and I am sure there are others on here with vastly more experience who do it different but this is what I do.

Step one: I sort brass by headstamp while sitting on boring conference calls at work. Most of what I load is once fired military brass with crimped primer pockets. As my eyes aren't what they used to be, I use a magnifying stand from my soldering set to assist with the sort:


Step two: I size/deprime and and add the 30cal neck in one step on my progressive press. Station one is a full length 223 size and deprime and station two is a 300 AAC die without the decapping pin.


Step three: I swedge the primer pockets, in my case I use my progressive press


Step four: I cut the neck on a home made fixture I created for a Harbor Freight mini chop saw:


Step five: I trim the cases to length, chamfer the case mouth (by hand) and clean out the primer pocket (also by hand)


Step six: I wet tumble the cases


Step seven: I anneal the cases with a home made annealing machine.


This may not be the best process but it works for me so far. I am very open to suggestions from the more experienced people here.

I'd suggest that if you got a life or a more exciting job, they wouldn't call you Flatliner. Then you could buy proper brass and could donate that workshop you made all that stuff in to a poor struggling individual like me.

If it works, don't fix it. You seem to be paying close attention to every step and that pays off in the long run better than mass producing shear numbers.

The only thing you did not really mention was prepping the primer pockets. Truing the flash hole and souring the seat. That pays off very well on the target if you're not doing it already, it's worth it.

[Flatliner]

I'd suggest that if you got a life or a more exciting job, they wouldn't call you Flatliner. Then you could buy proper brass and could donate that workshop you made all that stuff in to a poor struggling individual like me.

If it works, don't fix it. You seem to be paying close attention to every step and that pays off in the long run better than mass producing shear numbers.

The only thing you did not really mention was prepping the primer pockets. Truing the flash hole and souring the seat. That pays off very well on the target if you're not doing it already, it's worth it.

LOL, the job is awesome but doesn't involve good old fashioned building, hence the hobby. "Flatliner" is a holdover from my past life as a critical care nurse many years ago.

What does 'souring the seat' mean, that is a new one on me.