300BlkTalk

Hi folks, Any possibility of using closed-loop feedback from an IR sensor to control temperature through your board? I'm working on a system that does this with a flame right now, but an all-electric solution might be neat too. Andrew and I have worked on that a bit. The most obvious solution, an o...

Hi folks, I picked up this thread through a Google Alert. Aside from shooting (metallic silhouette), my other hobby as well as my profession is designing and working with induction heaters. I thought that I could help out on brass annealing, as my company (http://www.fluxeon.com) has designed case ...

Notar wrote:Cool sim, can you run one with flame, and a 5-6 sec duration for comparison. 500 W, holy shizz, maybe flame will last a long time for case annealing.

I can in a bit, sure.

Thanks guys for the reply; I figured folks here would have the wisdom to keep me from wasting my hard-earned dollars! :lol: I'll start looking into the different methods of doing it with flame; I'm just not keen on spending $500+ for either method personally. I've seen the kit on Midway that seems ...

NO. In order to prevent the body and head of the case from heating too much (anything beyond about 475°) while heating the neck to 700°+, you have to get the heat into the case very quickly, as the copper will conduct the heat very quickly. If you're using an inductor, you'll need a very high power ...

annealing is an art of getting the case to the right blue color but not getting the brass too hot/red you can use a laser temp gauge like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html or borrow one to refine your technique the sweet spot is ~750 F (or something like th...

smac61 wrote:

JohnInNH wrote:ALSO I would add annealing to the process.

I've been reading about this. Do you know of (or would you care to create) a tutorial with pictures on doing this?

Thanks,
Sean

Working on this right now. Hope to have something up sometime this week. I'll post a link in here when I do.

smac61 wrote:

RocketmanOU wrote:Just put on some Imperial Case Wax, and run through the die.

I've just been doing a normal roll on the lube pad with a light coating of RCBS lube. Seems to work fine, but I'm new to this. Should I be doing something more?

Not so long as you're not getting stuck or deformed cases.

Maryland_Shooter wrote:Pardon my ignorance, what die do you use to re-form the brass? Just the 300 BLK die?

Thanks in advance!

Yup. It's such a small deformation, you don't need to do multiple steps. Just put on some Imperial Case Wax, and run through the die.

IMHO I feel you need to anneal reformed brass at least the first time as the annealing from the parent case may not be low enough to soften the new shoulder area. My failures at the neck and shoulders have all been with reformed brass. This is precisely my interest in annealing ATM. The case was ne...